Technology of cultivation of cucumbers in closed ground. Cucumber cultivation technology. Pre-landing preparation and its timing

More and more often, the owners of country houses are thinking about vegetable growing. Many think about tomatoes and cucumbers.

Excellent knowledge about technical processes planting will allow you to get a rich harvest. Let's talk about how to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse, what you need to know for this and what designs are used for this most often.

Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse and the subtleties of choosing the right place

Before planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is necessary to correctly determine the place for the structure. For greenhouse business, even household plot. Areas with a slight southern slope are also considered.
What you need to know before planting cucumbers in a greenhouse:

• The most important thing is that the place is not exposed to winds from the northeast and from the north.
• It is also worth immediately considering the construction of a small fence, which will protect the structure from various negative factors.
• Next, a scheme for planting cucumbers in a greenhouse and an irrigation scheme are worked out in advance.
• Groundwater at the selected location should lie at a depth of 150-200 cm.

Advice. A very important condition for greenhouse cultivation is fertile soil, which is suitable for the preparation of soil mixtures.

• To choose the right size of the greenhouse structure, it is necessary to provide for the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site and volume.

To create a protective surface, as a rule, a polyethylene film with a slope of 15-20 degrees is used.

How to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse: the benefits of a vegetable

Many culture lovers can’t even imagine the benefits of cucumber. The culture contains a lot of vitamins, including fiber, group B and C. The vegetable consists of 95% living structured water.
The advantage of cucumber culture:

• Cucumber perfectly satisfies hunger and thirst.
• Also an excellent absorbent is the liquid itself, which makes up the cucumber.
• Cucumbers help cleanse the body of toxins and toxins that accumulate daily in the body.
• Due to the natural properties of cucumber, digestion improves in the human body.
• Cucumber also has diuretic properties.

Advice. If you constantly use cucumber in food, then over time, the gums and teeth become stronger, the shine of the hair is significantly noticeable and the skin acquires a healthy color.

Planting seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse: soil preparation

Before you start growing cucumbers, you need to take care of the soil in advance.
The ground base must have the following qualities:

• There must be excellent throughput and absorption capacity.
• The soil must be fertile.

Advice. The most optimal soil for planting cucumbers is fresh humus and soddy soil. And for the substrate, you can use humus, peat, field soil (30% / 50% / 20%).

As an additive, you can use softwood sawdust:

• The substrate will have an excellent effect on productivity, and will also significantly reduce the cost of greenhouse production.

The soil preparation technology is very simple:

• First, all vegetation is removed from the site and disinfection is done (see How to cultivate the land and how to increase its fertility).
• Before the procedure, the soil is dug up by 25 cm, and a month later, an enriched mixture for the soil is prepared.

Advice. Only a flat base is used for growing crops. For the successful growth of fruits, ridges or ridges are used.

• The optimal size for the ridge is considered to be a height of 25 cm and a width of 1 m.
• To equip the steam crests, it is necessary to dig a 40 cm pit for hot manure.

After that, a layer of soil about 15 cm thick is poured.

Instructions for growing cucumbers indoors

For closed ground, only planting seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse is used. The seedling method guarantees a harvest at an earlier date than the seed method.
So:

• For this, seedlings aged 25 days are used.
• Terms are determined depending on the chosen design.
• Cucumbers should be planted at a distance of 50 cm between rows with a two-line tape and a distance between the tape of at least 20 cm.
• In order to plant seedlings, a scoop and a cord are used, with the help of which holes are formed.
• A pot of seedlings is placed in the mud and covered with soil.

Advice. Sometimes you can find a seal of cucumbers with Chinese cabbage and onions. We must not forget that the stems of seedlings require additional support.

For watering cucumbers, only warm water is used.
Consider the recommendations for caring for cucumbers:

• For winter period watering is done only on sunny days and in the morning.
• In warm weather, cucumbers are watered 2 times a week, and on sunny days every other day.
• It is also necessary to loosen not deep for the air permeability of the soil. Thus root rot is prevented.
• It is also recommended to ventilate the greenhouse often by raising the panel slightly.
• In warm weather, the greenhouse remains open all day.
• Strictly monitor feeding. For this, infusion is used chicken manure or from herbs you can apply nettle.
• Also, mineral fertilizers intended for pumpkin crops are used for top dressing.

What pests and diseases are found in cucumbers

The main problem for greenhouse farming, it's a different kind of infection. Let us consider in more detail what are the most serious diseases found in cucumbers.
Powdery mildew (peronosproz):

• Symptoms are enclosed in the affected leaves, which are covered with yellow or green spots. Over time, the spots turn brown.
• At the first symptoms of the disease, it is immediately recommended to stop watering the crop. It is necessary to treat the plant with a solution of polycarbacin or copper oxychloride.
• After spraying, immediately ventilate the greenhouse.

Attention! When airing, it is unacceptable to lower the temperature regime, during the day not lower than 20 degrees, at night, not lower than 18 degrees.

Outbreaks of the disease are most often recorded with the onset of heat. All work can be done by hand, without the involvement of specialists.
Timely protection against dangerous diseases will help protect the crop and give a timely rich harvest. Recommended View instructional video how to plant and care for the crop.

parnik-teplitsa.ru

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse: all the subtleties of agricultural technology

Probably, many are interested in the question of whether it is possible to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse all year round. In fact, fresh, juicy and crispy cucumbers in the refrigerator in winter, even in the most northern regions, are not just a dream, but a real reality. Of course, for this you need to create ideal conditions for the cultivation of this vegetable, and, as you know, they can be achieved only in greenhouse conditions. Also, the farmer will need to work hard.

Before embarking on this lesson, so that the invested forces are not wasted, the technology of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse must first be studied, which has its own nuances. Firstly, there are bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic groups of cucumbers, and not every one of them is suitable for an artificially created environment. Therefore, it all starts with choosing a variety of cucumbers for growing in a home greenhouse.

There are two main varieties of cucumbers for growing in a greenhouse. The first option is best cultivated in natural conditions, and the second is most acceptable to plant in greenhouses. This is due to the fact that insects will not be able to fly into the greenhouse or they can, but in insufficient quantities, therefore, the first group will need to be pollinated daily with their own hands, which will add additional trouble to the gardener.

In addition, not everyone knows how to produce the correct pollination, and if the gardener made a mistake in something, then the ovaries of the plants will simply fall off. In a word, the agricultural technique for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, first of all, includes the correct selection of varieties, and this moment must be taken with all due attention.

Step by step process of growing cucumbers.

The most common and well-established cucumbers include the following greenhouse varieties:

1. High-yielding F1 hybrid cucumbers include: Makhaon, Hercules, Emelya, Dynamite, Hummingbird, Maysky, Buyan, Twiksi and others.
2. With its unpretentiousness, good yields are observed in the varieties "Manul", "Pomegranate" and "Moscow greenhouse".
3. Shade tolerance and adaptability to low humidity temperatures are distinguished by such varieties as Russian, Marfinsky, Domashny, Relay and Regatta.

Secondly, there are other features of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, which should be studied in stages. This includes the preparation of seeds and soil, the arrangement of the greenhouse, the proper planting of seedlings, as well as further care of the plants before harvesting in general.

So, what other secrets are there for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse? Let's consider each process in more detail.

seeds

After the seeds of the desired variety have been purchased, they should be prepared for sowing and properly planted. Each process has individual rules.

Sowing preparation

At this stage, you first need to calibrate the seeds. Next, they are disinfected. To do this, they are placed for half a day in a cloth, which must be moistened in an aqueous solution. blue vitriol, boric acid and nitrophoska (a pinch of copper sulfate and boric acid is added to 1 liter, as well as 1 tsp of nitrophoska).

After that, the seeds are rinsed with plain water and placed in a refrigerator for hardening. Pre-seeds are placed between layers of gauze, which must be constantly moistened in the process. This procedure is carried out for a week at zero temperature.

Sowing and growing seeds

In heated greenhouses, cucumber seeds can be sown at any time, since it is easy to set the temperature there at 23-25 ​​degrees, which is necessary for their germination. But if the structure is unheated, then the seeds will have to be sown at home. It is better to do this in the first half of April, in order to plant the finished seedlings in the greenhouse by mid-May.

Note! After the first sprouts appear, the daytime temperature in the room should be lowered to 15-18 degrees and at night - to 12 degrees.

For sowing seeds, it is better to use low containers: pots, plastic cups, and so on. Each of them is planted in a separate container and deepens into the soil by 2 cm. Seedlings are watered every 2 days, periodically feeding them with a solution of mullein (proportion 1:6).

Preparing for planting seedlings

While the seeds germinate, you can simultaneously prepare the soil in the greenhouse. It should be neutral, fertile, loose, able to retain and absorb moisture well, as well as air.

soil for cucumbers

When some other crop was already harvested in the greenhouse before planting cucumbers, then the soil will need to be disinfected with a hot solution of potassium permanganate and re-fertilized. You will also need to process directly the inside of the structure itself with a solution of bleach.

If you pay attention to the tips for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, which are given by experienced farmers, then the best soil for cucumbers can be obtained by mixing humus and soddy land. A mixture based on peat is also successfully used, to which humus and field soil are added. The ratio is as follows: peat is taken 50% , humus need 30% , and the field soil is added 20% .

Advice! In order to increase the profitability of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, a sawdust substrate is often used. It is prepared in the following proportion: 50% of field soil is taken for 50% sawdust from coniferous wood.

Cucumber beds

The device of a warm bed for cucumbers.

There are different ways to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse. For example, in northern regions with a cold climate, it is better to use the technique of growing cucumbers in "warm beds". For their manufacture, either horse or cow dung is used, which also serves as plant food.

If there is no way to get manure, then you can replace it with compost. Sawdust, last year's foliage or tops and other organic materials can be used for it.

Moreover, to speed up the processing of organic matter, special preparations are often added to the compost, which can now be purchased at any specialized store. The price for them is quite low, so it does not make sense to save on this, since it significantly helps the farmer's work.

Cucumber beds are formed in such a way that the interval between them is from 60 to 70 cm. They should have a height of 15 to 20 cm and a width of about 60 cm. It is better if their orientation is from north to south. This will increase the resistance of cucumbers to disease.

Planting cucumber seedlings in the main place

Scheme-example of planting cucumber seedlings.

You can plant seedlings under the following conditions:

• if the plants have been hardened;
• if the plant has 4 leaves (25 days old).

In winter greenhouses, it is usually planted in early February, and in spring greenhouses with warm beds without a heating system - from about April 20 to April 25, with biofuel and heating - from early days to April 5. But in simple structures with a film coating on one natural heating, seedlings can be planted no earlier than the initial days of May.

Immediately before planting, it is necessary to carry out moisturizing watering of the soil. Cubes with seedlings are buried in the soil mixture by one third of the height so that their upper edge slightly rises above the surface of the beds. To do this, holes are first made about 10-11 cm deep.

When planting seedlings in the main place, it is very important to ensure that the soil does not cover the hypocotyl knee. The interval between seedlings of cucumbers should not be more than 40 cm and less than 50 cm. Finally, you need to mulch the soil with peat. It is enough if its layer is small - 3-4 cm.

Cucumber care

Feeding and watering

Table of fertilizer doses for feeding cucumbers.

In order to achieve good yields, cucumbers should be fed. This procedure is divided into types. So, there are foliar and root top dressing. For these purposes, both mineral and organic fertilizers are used. When cultivating cucumbers, the mullein has proven itself very well. The foliar feeding method is mainly used for weakened plants, in which the activity of the root system is reduced.

Also, this method improves the quality of cucumbers and has a positive effect on the resistance of cucumbers to adverse conditions. The root method is used when the soil has sufficient fertility. Usually two such top dressings are enough.

The first is carried out in the phase of the 3rd true leaflet, and the second - during the growing season. Water cucumbers every 2 days. If the weather is too hot and sunny, then the greenhouse should definitely be well ventilated. For cucumbers, the optimal daytime temperature is 26-27 degrees, and at night - from 18 to 20 degrees.

Shaping and garter

For 3-4 days after planting seedlings, plants should be tied to a trellis, which will serve as a support. A wire is stretched along each bed in 3 rows. The first row should be at a height of 20 cm, the second at 60-80 cm, and the third at 150-180 cm from the ground. Cucumber lashes will be tied to them with the help of twine.

The formation of cucumbers is an important procedure for a good indicator productivity. It is carried out depending on the characteristics of the variety or hybrid. The condition of the plant itself is also of great importance.

1. If cucumbers are grown in a greenhouse on trellises, then the main shoot does not need to be pinched. As it grows, the plant should be carefully folded over the top row of wire and lowered down. Lateral shoots should be pinched according to the following rules: the lower ones - over 2, the middle ones - over 3, and the upper ones - over 4 ovaries.
2. The second method of forming cucumbers is applied if the stem outgrows the trellis. Then its top is bent through the wire and twisted one turn. The growth point should first be pinched behind the fourth leaf, and then tied up. Directly behind the trellis, the shoot, which is located in the axil of the leaf, must be removed, and the remaining shoots should be evenly distributed over the support. After that, they are pinched at a distance of every 50 cm. When mass fruiting begins, the shoots that go into the aisle, it is also necessary to pinch and direct them down.

Note! In order for the plants to heal faster, this procedure must be carried out at low air humidity. Also, you can not simultaneously remove diseased leaves and pinch young shoots, otherwise this will lead to the spread of infection.

Conclusion

Of course, it is impossible to write everything about growing cucumbers in a greenhouse in one article, so this instruction is only quick guide. If you want to get even more information about the cultivation of cucumbers, then we recommend watching the video in this article, which will help even a novice gardener to better understand the whole technology of growing this healthy, juicy and tasty vegetable.

By the way, industrial cultivation cucumbers in the greenhouse occurs in almost the same way as described above. If you plan to build a business on this agricultural business, then you should first try small. After you manage to collect, albeit a small, but high-quality crop from the planted plants, you can increase the turnover every season.

oteplicah.com

Cucumbers in a greenhouse: agricultural technology, care, disease control, selection of varieties

The yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse depends only on you and on how much you can comply with the necessary proper development cucumber conditions Agrotechnics for growing cucumbers in greenhouse conditions practically does not differ from agricultural technology in relation to open ground. There are only a few features that we will definitely consider. So, growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, tillage, the basics of care, top dressing and disease control.

Cucumbers: basic information

Cucumbers in a greenhouse can bring a sufficient harvest not only to meet their own needs, but also for commercial activities. And in order to get a good result at the end of the ripening season, you need to follow some rules. They are simple, but require some time and increased attention from the summer resident who grows cucumbers in a greenhouse. But the final result will depend only on your desire.

Tillage and greenhouses

Before sowing cucumbers inside the greenhouse, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work. The soil in the greenhouse and greenhouse should be disinfected with high quality. These actions should also be applied to the greenhouse itself, the bases and risers of which in the future can become a source of diseases and infections. To do this, use a solution of bleach - a tincture of 40 g of lime in 12 liters of pure water for two hours (treatment in the fall), and boiling water with potassium permanganate - 3 g of manganese per bucket of water (treatment in the spring).

Greenhouse treatment and prevention should be carried out not only before planting the crop and after harvesting, but also during its growth inside the greenhouse. It is necessary to ensure proper ventilation of the greenhouse and constant access to the interior of the bees, which is necessary for better pollination. Air ventilation is very important in the greenhouse, but not a draft, which adversely affects cucumbers, taking carbon dioxide out of the greenhouse and significantly increasing the evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Needs more nourishment carbon dioxide, which positively affects the formation and development of female flowers. To do this, it is necessary to introduce organic matter into the soil. You can also scatter mullein around the cucumbers, but only so that it does not touch the plants.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

In this section, we will try to explain to each reader how to form cucumbers in a greenhouse.

It is advisable to grow cucumbers on a vertical trellis, the height of which will reach 2 m, and use a pinch. In hybrid plants, the main shoot is pinched. This should be done when the plant reaches the top of the trellis, above the second or third leaf after the last fruit. Fruiting can be accelerated by pinching cucumbers over the fourth or fifth leaf.

Varietal cucumbers are formed upon reaching the phase of the sixth or eighth leaf. You should pinch all the shoots and flowers in the first few axils, at the very beginning of their formation. It is necessary to check the next 4-5 knots and be sure to pinch them on one cucumber and one leaf. With the help of this process, you will be able to form the correct fruit-bearing bush, which will have shoots of the second and third order.

It is worth making a small digression about the garter of cucumbers on the trellis. It is advisable to tie them with a double slip knot - so the plant will not be damaged.

Temperature

The technology of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse assumes a constantly correct temperature, which should not experience sharp fluctuations - this is very harmful for plants. An example would be temperature fluctuations day and night, about +12 degrees Celsius and +28 °C, respectively, when active leaf growth begins to the detriment of the normal development of fruits.

A decrease in soil temperature also negatively affects, for example, to + 13-15 ° C, when the roots of cucumbers cannot absorb water. At the moment, physiological dryness sets in. This term means the presence of water in the soil, but the impossibility of its entry into the plant. Often this is the cause of the death or disease of plants.

Humidity and watering

One of the main factors for good growth of cucumbers is their watering and setting the correct humidity in the greenhouse.

Humidity should be slightly elevated and kept at 75-90% (air) and 50-60% (soil). Sprinkling will help maintain such humidity, especially on hot summer days. Use for this process 4-5 liters of water for each square meter beds. Do not forget that the water should not be cold - its temperature should approximately coincide with the air temperature.

If you notice wilted leaves or a sickly appearance of cucumbers, then do not be too lazy to water them. Best time for this - from 11 to 12 noon, as well as from 13 to 15 hours.

Watering plants should only be done with warm water, as cold water can cause various diseases of the root system. Also, do not water cucumbers to the very root - plants do not like this. Make small grooves along the bushes and pour water over them.

top dressing

Top dressing of cucumbers in the greenhouse is mandatory, but it should be carried out correctly. For example, in the first few weeks after they sprout, cucumbers do not consume much nutrients. Active process their absorption occurs only in the phases of flowering and fruiting.

In the first two weeks, seedlings need to increase the nitrogen supply. After that, in the period before flowering - phosphorus, and during the fruiting period, take care of feeding cucumbers with nitrogen-potassium fertilizers.

Top dressing is best done in the late afternoon. After fertilizing, water the plants with a small amount of water. After that, you can pour some fertile soil under the plants.

Well suited organic top dressing in certain proportions - bird droppings 1:15, slurry 1:5, mullein 1:8. Experts advise combining fertilizers and combining organics with mineral fertilizers. Thus, you can also add the following solutions to the soil, which you need to water the cucumbers at the rate of 0.5 liters for each bush: no more than 5 g of saltpeter, 5 g of potassium salt and 10 g of superphosphate per bucket of water.

An option for high-quality top dressing can also be the introduction of 0.5 liters of a solution of 1 liter of mullein in a bucket of water and 20 g of urea for each plant before flowering, as well as a similar solution, but with the addition of 40 g of superphosphate after flowering begins.

At the beginning of flowering, the following method of feeding cucumbers is often used, which, by the way, can generally be combined with the previous option: 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.3 g of manganese and 0.5 g of boric acid.

In case of violation of the thermal regime, which often occurs in our greenhouses, foliar top dressing is also possible. To do this, you need to prepare the following solution: for a bucket of water - 2 g of potassium permanganate, boric acid and copper sulfate. Processing is carried out in the evening or early in the morning, the lower part of the leaf is sprayed to the maximum, which is able to quickly and well absorb the solution.

Pests and diseases of cucumbers in the greenhouse

We all understand perfectly how to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse. Somewhere we have our own knowledge, somewhere we use the advice of professionals. But there is always something that can interfere with a good harvest - diseases and pests of cucumbers in the greenhouse that we have to fight.

There are plenty of ways to prevent and fight, and some of them we will remind you right now:

• greenhouse whitefly. It can damage not only cucumber, but also other crops. Sucking the juice from the leaves, the whitefly leaves special secretions on the leaves, on which, subsequently, soot fungi form. You can fight the whitefly simple ways: remove weeds in time, arrange glue traps, wash plants.
• melon aphid. Aphids on cucumbers in a greenhouse severely damage leaves, flowers, shoots and ovaries. Appearing in the second half of summer, it can quickly spread and attack all the plants in the greenhouse. It is necessary to fight aphids at the moment when they were first noticed. Initially, weeds should be removed, then the plants should be treated with an infusion of fresh red pepper, preferably a bitter variety - 200 g of tobacco dust and 30 g of pepper in a bucket of hot water. The infusion cools, and it is thoroughly mixed and filtered, after which one spoonful of soap and 2-3 tablespoons of wood ash are added to the liquid. Spraying is carried out once a week, up to 2 liters of infusion is used per square meter.
• powdery mildew. A fairly common disease of cucumbers in greenhouses and open ground. Initially, a white coating appears on the leaves, similar to flour, which quickly spreads throughout the plant and infects it. As a result, the leaves and shoots dry up, and the plant itself dies. The causative agents of the disease accumulate on soils, and can also be transferred from other plants. There are many ways to get rid of this disease, but we will give an example of the most common and least expensive. Cucumbers should be sprayed with a solution of mullein - put 1 liter of mullein (liquid) and 1 tablespoon of urea in a bucket of warm water. The solution must be infused, after which it is filtered and sprayed on the plant. It is advisable to do this in the morning, in warm weather, spraying the plants so that the solution gets on all its parts.
• root rot. Similar diseases of cucumbers in the greenhouse occur due to the frequent use of the same soil, as well as due to a decrease in soil temperature. Often, cucumbers in a greenhouse also rot due to irrigation with cold water, which is unacceptable. The disease is manifested by wilting of the cucumber leaf. You can confirm it by simply paying attention to the condition of the root stem: the stem affected by root rot turns yellow and cracks. To keep your plants healthy, try to keep the soil at the right temperature in the greenhouse, water only with warm water, and don't hill the plant. If the disease still overtook the cucumbers, then prepare the following medicine: for 500 ml of water, take 1 teaspoon of copper oxychloride or copper sulfate, add 3 tablespoons of fluffy lime or chalk and mix well. After that, carefully remove the earth in the lower part of the stem, from the roots and above, by 15 centimeters, and moisten this part well with the solution with a brush. It is also possible to powder the sore spots of the cucumber with chalk, ash or crushed coal, that is, dry it well.
• brown spot. The causative agents of the disease can live in the greenhouse itself, on plants and various weeds, and infect cucumbers from the soil. Favorable conditions are high humidity and low night temperatures. The disease manifests itself with brown wounds throughout the fetus, in which fluid accumulates. From the moment the disease begins, the cucumber becomes unusable. To prevent the spread of the disease to other plants, it is required to stop watering for 4-6 days, to ventilate in warm weather, in cold weather, on the contrary, close the greenhouse to raise the temperature. Plants should also be treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or foundationazole, no more than 30 g per bucket of water. Spray cucumbers only from a sprayer, on a warm morning, until 10-11 o'clock.
• Gray rot. Another disease that often spoils the nerves of summer residents. It appears on the stems of cucumbers and in the axils of the leaves, in the form of gray spots. Development occurs with poor ventilation, a strong thickening of the planting, with cold weather and watering with cold water. You can fight the disease simply by trying to change the conditions described above, as well as treat the plants with the following mixture - thoroughly mix 1 cup of wood ash and 1 teaspoon of copper sulphate and sprinkle the infected places with it. If the disease cannot be stopped, damaged shoots should be cut and burned.

Varieties of cucumbers for greenhouses

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse in winter and summer is possible only if the necessary conditions are created. In addition, the conditions must not only be created, but also constantly maintained, as well as choosing exactly those varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse that are focused on a good harvest and meet your personal requirements. Putting together all the components, you can get a harmonious picture and an excellent result.

To date, we know the best varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse and their hybrids: Claudia F1, Regia F1, Annushka F1, Zhuravlenok F1, Evita F1, Leandro F1, Masha F1, Marinda F1, Prestige F1, Biayaka, Farmer F1, Graceful, Nezhinsky local, Electron, Aquarius, Competitor, Nord-158 F1, Rodnichok F1 , Talisman F1, Alliance F1.

Question answer

In this section of our article, we want to give examples of frequently asked questions and answers to them.

Such information is difficult to find in the current materials of the network, which is why we have compiled this list:

• How do cucumbers grow in a polycarbonate greenhouse? The polycarbonate greenhouse for cucumbers is one of the most popular and best options greenhouses in our time, therefore, if you create the necessary conditions in this greenhouse, then it is best suited for growing cucumbers.
• How to choose cucumber seeds for greenhouses? Experts recommend buying only seeds produced from good harvests, processed and properly aged before planting. To do this, you can always contact specialists in this field, for example, people who have greenhouses for more than one year, or purchase cucumber seeds in specialized stores.
• Why do cucumbers rot in a greenhouse? The reason for this can be a lot of reasons, such as dampness and high humidity, watering with cold water at night, or a sharp decrease in soil temperature. These conditions attract diseases of cucumbers, due to which the stems and root system of the plant can succumb to decay.
• What to do if the leaves of cucumbers turn pale? This may mean nitrogen starvation of plants, in which they should be fed with urea, at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters of water.
• There are a lot of ovaries, but no cucumbers - what's the problem? The problem may be that there is not enough fertilizer. Try to feed cucumbers with mullein, in the fall of the crop, plant 100-200 g of humus and a pinch of urea for irrigation in a bucket of water.
• What to do if there are few cucumber ovaries in the greenhouse? Try to feed the planting with bird droppings after harvesting and lower the temperature down to +18 ° C, ventilate the greenhouse at night.
• Why do cucumbers turn yellow in a greenhouse? Quite often, cucumbers in the greenhouse turn yellow due to bacteriosis caused by improper conditions. It can be temperature fluctuations, and cold watering, and insufficient ventilation, and so on. But other reasons are also possible, for example, the leaves of cucumbers in a greenhouse often turn yellow due to an insufficient amount of elements necessary for growth. In this case, foliar top dressing should be carried out, that is, spraying.
• Interested in the scheme of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse . It all depends on the variety, the size of the greenhouse, the methods of cultivation. The most common is the planting pattern of 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 by 80-100 cm between rows; in the case of tapestries, the distance is about 1 m.

Video about growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

As you know, the yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse depends only on you and on how much you can comply with the conditions necessary for the proper development of a cucumber. Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse, agricultural technology itself and growing processes are quite complex, so it’s worth approaching the issue with all responsibility. DachaDecor.ru wishes you patience and solid harvests!

DachaDecor.ru

Not all young housewives are able to do what has been passed down from generation to generation for years. But this is not such a big problem, because everything can be learned. Now everything is much simpler, because all the information can be found on the Internet, and not by asking grandmothers, who over the years may forget something.

Growing cucumbers is one of the hardest things to do right now because you can't control how they end up growing. So, in this article I want to tell you all the technologies and nuances.

Cucumber cultivation technology

Everyone has their own technology for growing cucumbers, which has been tested by time and practice. Each technology changes over time, new techniques are added.

The plant itself, like a cucumber, is very demanding on heat and good watering. In order for the seeds to germinate, they should be planted at a temperature of 12-14 ° C. And the most optimal day temperature for cucumbers to grow good is 25-30 ° C, and at night - 18-22 ° C.

Cucumbers are the most demanding plant for heat. If the temperature drops sharply, then this greatly harms their flowering. After all, only in a warm temperature cucumbers bloom and bear fruit.

Also, this plant is a very big fan of moisture. This is very dependent on the leaves, which absorb a lot of water daily.

For sowing cucumbers, fertile soil is needed, otherwise they will not grow or they will give a poor harvest. The soil should be prepared two years before sowing and it is best to fertilize this soil with manure. To prepare the planting of cucumbers, it is required to plow the ground, while the depth should be at least 20-30 centimeters.

Cucumbers are mainly sown with old seeds that are 2-3 years old, but if there are no old seeds, you can always use new seeds. But the preparation of new seeds is a long process, because in order for the seeds to take on the desired consistency, they must be kept in thermostats for 4 to 6 hours, and the temperature must be at least 40-60⁰С. If you want your seeds to germinate much better, then you can keep them in the sun for 7-10 days.

When planting, the seeds should be located at a distance of 3 to 4 centimeters from the surface. It is best to plant already slightly germinated seeds. Sowing cucumber seeds depends on weather factors and soil temperature at planting. Sowing seeds occurs in the second and third decade of April or May. Technology can be completely different, depending on what you like. The most popular type of sowing is the 90x50x50 scheme. That is, these are two tapes, in which the length is 50 centimeters, and the distance in a row is 20-25 centimeters, while the distance between the tapes itself should be at least 80-90 centimeters.

Growing cucumbers at home

Often in winter you want fresh cucumbers, and purchased ones need to be carefully chosen, and a tasty variety will not always come across. Therefore, many practice growing vegetables at home, which is much easier. Yes, and everyone wants home-grown cucumbers.

In order to start planting cucumbers, they should be treated with "Epin" - this is a tool to accelerate the growth of vegetables. Seeds need to be planted in special boxes, it is better to add soddy soil to them so that the seeds grow better.

Be sure to water the seedlings every day and then cover each box with a glass lid, or with a film, so you create a small cozy greenhouse. Until your seeds show their first sprouts, the seedlings must be in a warm place, but not so warm as to dry the cucumbers, but after the appearance of small sprouts, the temperature must be lowered, otherwise the cucumbers will begin to reach up.

As soon as your cucumbers have real leaves, they are planted in separate containers, which must be at least eight liters in volume. Now cucumbers need to be watered with warm water. And it is best to stretch the twine so that your plant wraps around it. The plant needs to be pampered once a week - fed. It also needs a good spray of water or any special fertilizer and a long day, so water and spray the sprouts more often and put on special lamps so that the cucumbers can be fed by light.

bitter cucumbers

The bitterness in cucumbers appears under the peel, which mainly spreads along the buttocks of the cucumber. This is facilitated by such factors as: irregular watering of the sprout or poor spraying, placing the sprouts in a dark place, poor feeding, too high a temperature.

All this can be avoided by establishing the cause and quickly eliminating it. To do this, you need to feed cucumbers with potassium or calcium nitrate.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

The greenhouse must be prepared in the fall. The soil should be cleaned and fertilized, and dug up.

In the spring, as soon as the weather allows, the greenhouse is covered with a film and after a while ridges should be made with a height of 20 to 25 centimeters. Cucumbers for seedlings are prepared either at home or in a specially prepared greenhouse, otherwise the greenhouse method will not take root. If you plant cucumbers early, then get ready for frost. To do this, you need to purchase all the means of protection for seedlings so that the cucumbers grow well.

Cucumbers are planted in a greenhouse only after the earth has warmed up well, while the holes in which you are going to plant should be poured with a solution of potassium permanganate in order to fertilize them. After that, the wells are watered with warm water. Seedlings should be planted so that the roots do not touch the ground, but also do not suffer from daily watering, so that the roots should be 2-4 centimeters from the ground.

If you are going to wait a long time for the harvest, then you can plant your cucumbers with seeds, while it is required that the seeds are not in the soil itself, but also do not float when watering.

The soil should be moist, but in no case waterlogged, as this harms the cucumbers, as well as its overdrying. It is better to water by the very evening, so that the sprouts can absorb water during the night, and the water can warm up during the day of standing in the sun. The watering can must be with a sprinkler, so as not to damage the roots of the plant in any case. After each watering, carefully loosen the soil, otherwise the roots will soon come out and your cucumbers will dry out.

Growing cucumbers in the ground

The best way to grow cucumbers outdoors is the chaplere method. This method is good because in a big wind your cucumbers will not be damaged much, and in a downpour they will hardly suffer from excess water. Also, after the ripening of the crop, cucumbers can be easily harvested.

Form a bed in one row along the entire length of your garden, so it is easier to plant the seeds. Then, literally after a meter or two, drive in the stakes so that they do not stagger - this is the future trellis on which your seating arrangements will stretch. Attach beams on top of these stakes.

Seeds are best planted at a distance of 15-20 centimeters, so that the roots of future cucumbers do not strongly intertwine and interfere with each other. You should always water with warm water, just like in other types of growing cucumbers - a watering can with a sprinkler. In this case, the frequency of watering cucumbers depends on how the beds dry out.

As soon as the seedlings grow up, you should start tying the whip to the beams. You need to do this carefully so as not to damage anything. Periodically, the whip needs to be tightened, because the cucumbers will grow further, bearing great fruit. Be sure to try to tie the antennae of the cucumber whip on the beam, so that in the future the cucumbers themselves twist around and stretch to the top.

Be sure to keep an eye on the side stems. As soon as they begin to roll over the beam, immediately pinch them, otherwise the entire stem will fall to the ground.

Growing cucumbers in winter

Growing cucumbers in winter is possible in different ways. The best way is to grow in a greenhouse or just at home.

Cultivation of home cucumbers occurs initially in seedling pots, and then these small seedlings are planted in a larger box, where they continue to grow. In this case, you need to water carefully, because in such pots water is not quickly absorbed, and sometimes it comes out or pours out through them. Both harm your seedlings. Therefore, it is better to water a little and sprinkle the leaves of cucumbers (see paragraph above).

When growing in a greenhouse, remember that the greenhouse is a difficult and stubborn thing. To grow cucumbers in it (see paragraph above), you should be well prepared, otherwise you are unlikely to harvest a good enough crop.

Growing cucumbers reviews

Kristina:

“I grew cucumbers in different ways. I never complained about the harvest. Most of all I liked growing cucumbers at home. I've been doing this for over five years now. Harvest is wild. The secret is that I add a liter of milk and twenty drops of greenery to a bucket of water. After, I spray cucumbers with this potion. The harvest is simply gorgeous, and the effect of this is not long in coming.”

“My wife loves homemade cucumbers very much and at the same time grows them in a greenhouse. Cucumbers are delicious. She even wonders why. She does not know that in order to give the cucumbers a sweetish taste and make them bigger, I secretly water the cucumber beds with a strong solution of potassium permanganate from my wife. Cucumbers after that are very tasty and do not lose their taste when seaming.”

mezhdudevochkami.ru

Cucumbers are grown in the greenhouses of OJSC Agrokombinat "Gorkovskiy" in winter-spring and summer-autumn cycles. In the winter-spring turnover in protected ground, the leading position is occupied by shade-tolerant bee-pollinated hybrids of the Restafeta variety type, such as F 1 Restafeta and F 1 Atlet. (Gavrish) The agricultural complex uses F 1 Gladiator as a hybrid pollinator. In the summer - autumn turnover, parthenocarpic hybrids are grown, such as: F 1 Effect, F 1 Courage

Presowing preparation of seeds. To accelerate the growth of seedlings, seeds are soaked in a solution of trace elements for 12 hours:

for 1 liter of water, 100 mg of boric acid, copper sulfate, zinc sulfate and manganese sulfate, 20 mg of ammonium molybdate. After soaking, the seeds are dried to a free-flowing state.

TMTD - against a complex of diseases: dressing of seeds 4 g / kg of seeds (10 ml of water / kg of seeds).

In winter - spring turnover, the optimal time for sowing cucumber is December 1 - 3. And for the summer - autumn turnover 12 - 14 June. Seedlings are grown in mineral wool cubes. The cubes are placed close to each other on sliding racks (which allows you to save a high percentage of the usable area of ​​seedling greenhouses, helps save energy, provides better heat and light conditions, and also improves working conditions) and cover with a film.

After the emergence of seedlings, the covering film is removed and the seedlings are placed manually at the beginning of the closing of the leaves. When a true leaf appears, the seedlings are unfolded so that the first true leaf of each plant is directed in one direction. So the leaves shade each other less. The final plant density after spreading is about 20 - 22 plants per m 2). Before the emergence of seedlings, the air temperature is maintained at 25 - 26 ° C, and the temperature of the substrate is 24 - 25 ° C. After the emergence of seedlings, the covering film is removed, the air temperature is gradually reduced to 20 - 22 ° C. This temperature is maintained until planting seedlings at a level of 20 - 21 ° C - during the day (with additional illumination) and 17-18 ° C at night (without additional illumination). The difference between day and night temperatures provides good development root system. The substrate temperature must match the air temperature. Air humidity 80 - 85%, substrate humidity 75-80%. and turn on the lights. In low greenhouses, Reflux lamps - 400 are used, and in new high greenhouses Reflux lamps - 600. The first 3-4 days, supplementary lighting is carried out around the clock. Then 10-12 days - 16 hours a day; the next 10-12 days - 14 hours each, and the last 4 - 5 days before planting the seedlings - 12 hours each. On the last day, the seedlings that are going to be planted are not illuminated. The size of nutrient cubes when growing seedlings is 10x10x4.5; the mass of one dry cube is about 12-15 and 50-55 g.

Mats should be stored in unheated premises, safe in terms of fire protection. To prevent drying out, the mats are covered with plastic wrap.

Growing cucumber in a small-volume culture, it is desirable to have sub-substrate heating. The temperature of the heat carrier in the under-substrate heating system should be automatically controlled; its increase in the under-substrate heating system above 24 ° C leads to an increase in the temperature of the substrate and damage to plants by pithy and fusarium rots. Also, special attention is paid to watering, 2-3 days before planting, the mats are saturated with a nutrient solution with EC 2.5-3.0 mS/cm and pH 5.3. The optimum substrate temperature is not lower than 22 ° C.

When growing seedlings on mineral wool, they are watered once or twice a day with a nutrient solution consumption of 0.3 - 0.4 liters per plant.

Nutrition levels depending on the periods of growth of cucumber plants when grown on mineral wool are given in Table 1.

Levels of mineral nutrition of hybrid F 1 Athlete when grown on mineral wool. Table 1

growth period	Batteries						EU, mS/cm
Growing seedlings
Drink mats
Before fruiting
fruiting period
End of fruiting

In a long period of cloudy weather, you need to water it especially carefully, because. high root pressure with minimal transpiration can lead to stem cracking.

The day before planting, seedlings are watered with a fungicide solution against root rot. When selecting plants for planting, all diseased and weakened ones are removed. Seedlings are collected in boxes and transported to planting.

Cucumber seedlings are planted at the end of December, 25-30 cm high, having five to six large leaves, with a well-developed root system. The main value is the early part of the crop coming in spring and early summer. Planting density is 2.3 - 2.5 plants per m2.

Preparation of the greenhouse for planting seedlings begins with its disinfection after the end of the previous culture. Rows of plants are placed along the ridge, with a span of 6.4 m, 4 rows of plants are planted. After placing the mineral wool cube on the mat, it is necessary to carry out 2-3 waterings to improve its contact with the mat and stimulate the rooting of plants. For better surface contact, the cube is “pinned” to the mat with a bamboo stick. In the future, watering is carried out taking into account the arrival of solar radiation. After rooting (2-4 days after planting), the plants are tied with twine to horizontal trellises - wires stretched over rows of plants, while 2 trellises (50 cm from one another) are placed above one row of cucumbers. The optimal height of the trellis is 2.2 m. First, the twine is tied to the wire with a double sliding knot, and then to the stem of the plants (for convenience, the twine is thrown over the trellis even in an empty greenhouse). As the plants grow, their stems are twisted around the stretched twine.

Yellowing lower leaves, deformed ovaries and fruiting shoots should be removed. It is also recommended to remove the tendrils, since the infection remains inside the leaves twisted by them, which reduces the effectiveness of the treatment of plants with pesticides.

From the leaf axils of the lower part of the plants (up to a height of 50 cm), side shoots and flower buds should be blinded. Above this zone of "blindness" of the leaf axils, pinch the next 6-7 shoots (up to a plant height of 1 m) on 1 leaf and 1 ovary. Lateral shoots in the middle and upper parts of the main stem (up to a height of 1.5-1.7 m) are pinched into 2 leaves and 2 ovaries, and the uppermost ones (under the trellis) - into 3-4 leaves and 3-4 ovaries. Pinching shoots should be carried out with minimal losses for a plant, i.e. remove only the top of the shoot. Late pinching of growth points, as well as removal of shoots 20-30 cm long, leads to a significant decrease in yield (by 2-3 kg / m 2).

The first fruits on the main stem must be removed when their weight reaches 180 - 210 g, otherwise they will retard the growth of side shoots, especially in cloudy weather. After the top of the main stem has outgrown the trellis, it is smoothly bent to the wire (making two turns). It is very important to direct the tops of all plants in one direction. The top of the shoot is led to the next plant, then 1-2 leaves are lowered down and pinched.

On the main hybrid of a predominantly female type of flowering, a sufficient number of male flowers for full pollination is available only at the first stages of flowering. Further, the number of male flowers decreases sharply. Therefore, the agricultural complex grows the main bee-pollinated hybrid F 1 Athlete together with the hybrid - pollinator F 1 Gladiator. It is very important that the fruits of the main hybrid and the hybrid - pollinator are as similar as possible so that there is no need for additional sorting. The number of plants of the hybrid - pollinator is 10 - 15% of the total number of plants (1: 4 - 5). The planting of plants of the hybrid - pollinator is carried out by the end of February, when the main hybrid's own male flowers are no longer enough to ensure normal pollination. However, even in pollinators, the proportion of male flowers decreases with an increase in the order of branching. Therefore, during the winter-spring turnover, seedlings of the hybrid - pollinator are planted in 2-3 terms. In the second half of March, 3-5% of the pollinator hybrid plants are planted to the main hybrid, then the next planting is carried out in mid-May to ensure the fruiting of plants in June. You can plant plants of a hybrid - a pollinator in place of the fallen plants.

A feature of a bee-pollinated cucumber compared to parthenocarpic cucumbers is that the growth of the ovary and the formation of the fruit are impossible without setting seeds after pollination. Cucumber pollen is coarse-grained, sticky, and not carried by the wind. Pollination of cucumber flowers in greenhouses occurs with the participation of bees.

The maximum set of fruits and their good quality is obtained by pollinating flowers in the morning. If a female flower is fertilized on the first day, the next day its petals turn pale and the bees visit such a flower less often. The female cucumber flowers are visited less frequently by bees compared to the male flowers, which are more attractive in that they contain not only pollen, but also nectar.

In greenhouses in the morning, bees visit, mainly male flowers. This is due to the lack of bee bread in the colonies, which is why the bees experience protein starvation. One bee colony is able to provide effective pollination in a hangar greenhouse up to 1500 m 2 in size. In block greenhouses, there should be 8-10 families of bees per 1 ha. When growing a culture of bee-pollinated cucumber, the exhibition of bee colonies from the winter hut to the greenhouses is carried out after the plants are tied up, 4-5 days before they start flowering. Hives are installed in the southwestern corner of the greenhouse, with the direction of the notch to the pollinated crop. The setting of the bee family at the end opposite to the entrance to the greenhouse is due to the fact that when installing the hives at the door, the bees fly out into the working and production premises and get lost. Bee colonies are placed on metal supports 35-40 cm high, leaving a free space of 1 m around for the bees to fly out. In cloudy weather, bees can be exhibited at any time of the day, and in sunny weather it is better in the evening. A day after the flight, a control inspection of the exposed bee colonies. If necessary, bee colonies are transplanted into clean hives and replenish food supplies as needed. A prerequisite for preparing bee colonies for pollination is the installation of individual drinkers with salted water on the day of the exhibition of bee colonies in greenhouses. Treatment with pesticides is recommended to be carried out at the most favorable time, if possible, with preparations that are harmless to bees and, preferably, in the afternoon, and at elevated temperatures - in the late afternoon, when the bees no longer visit the flowers.

The optimal temperature regime in the greenhouse is described in Table 2.

Air and soil temperature. Table 2.

Relative humidity is maintained within 70-75% before fruiting and 75-80% during fruiting.

After the end of the first wave of fruiting on the main shoot and the transition of fruiting to side shoots, the night temperature is reduced for two weeks to 16-17 ° C, which leads to the formation of female flowers, stimulates the branching of plants and accelerates the appearance of side shoots.

Fruiting of cucumber hybrids in winter-spring turnover begins from January 19-25. And in summer - autumn in early August. The first fruits appear on the main stem. The period from the beginning of flowering to the formation of the fruit, depending on the illumination and variety, is 12-20 days.

Cleaning of greens is carried out every other day. Fruit picking is carried out in the early morning, because. fruits harvested during the day are heated and stored worse. Harvesting is the hardest job. Harvesting carts and tractor lifts must be used. Standard fruits are collected in boxes and taken out of the aisles on trolleys through adrenal heating pipes.

Standard cucumber fruits are 18-22 cm. It is very important that the fruits of the main hybrid and the hybrid-pollinator are as similar as possible so that there is no need for their additional sorting. For winter-spring and extended rotations, cucumber hybrids are needed, which are adapted both to the short day (7-8 hours) and low light in the winter months, and to the long day and high light in the spring and summer months. A very important property for these hybrids is also resistance to abrupt transitions from low to high light and vice versa. Also resistant to low temperatures of the day and night. The importance of this point increases with the increase in energy prices for winter greenhouses.

Bee-pollinated cucumber hybrids can withstand night temperatures down to 15-16 C without yield reduction, which reduces energy costs and expands the growing area in cultivation facilities.

Cucumber culture must be completed at the end of June, because. Cucumber plants age quickly; the yield of the crop is significantly reduced and the number of non-standard products is increasing (more than 50%). With the appearance of cucumbers on the market, the price of fruits drops significantly (taking into account non-standard products, this price drop is noticeable). Due to the aging of the cucumber and the accumulation of diseases and pests, it is necessary to significantly increase the number chemical treatments. Also, further extension leads to difficulties in marketing products and the loss of optimal planting dates for the next crop. Cucumber yield in winter - spring culture (until July 1) - 31-33 kg / m 2. .

In summer-autumn turnover at OJSC Agrokombinat Gorkovsky, cucumber is planted until July 8, at the age of 20-25 days. Each week of delay in planting seedlings means a yield loss of more than 1 kg/m 2 . The main problem in the cultivation of cucumber in the summer-autumn turnover is the observance of a set of phytosanitary measures. By the time of growing seedlings

for the second turnover, pathogens and pests that remain after the winter-spring turnover accumulate in greenhouses. F1 Courage is resistant to powdery mildew. Near greenhouses with summer-autumn cucumber culture, there should not be greenhouses with extended cucumber culture as a source of infection for young plants.

In order to improve illumination and air exchange in the prism zone, it is recommended to blind the lateral shoots from the lower leaf axils of the main stem at a height of 90 cm. Lateral shoots located above 90 cm should be formed into one leaf and one fruit, and on the main stem, increase the number of fruits, leaving ovaries starting from a height of 40 cm above the soil surface.

Irrigation is of great importance. Do not allow the substrate to dry out, because. the root system weakens. As the weather deteriorates, watering reduces the temperature of the substrate at the beginning of cultivation 22-24 o C, at the end 19-20 o C. Relative humidity before fruiting 70-75%, after fruiting 80%. They also carry out fertilizing with potash fertilizers.

The autumn cucumber culture is completed at the end of October, and depending on the variety and planting time, a yield of 10-12 kg / m 2 is obtained.

Supplementation with carbon dioxide.

Obtaining a high overall and especially early yield is impossible without the use of carbon dioxide supplements, especially in the case of growing in a low-volume hydroponics method. In greenhouses, carbon dioxide is emitted by plants during respiration, contained in the atmosphere, or supplied to the greenhouse. The first two sources are not enough to ensure a high level of photosynthesis. In sunny weather, and in February - March with closed transoms, without additional filing carbon dioxide content in the air is reduced, which leads to a significant crop shortage.

The sources of carbon dioxide supplied to the greenhouse can be divided into biological and technical. The use of biological sources is associated with the activity of microorganisms that decompose fiber and produce carbon dioxide in the course of their life. Biological sources of CO 2 in greenhouses are manure, straw, wood chips, sawdust, peat, etc. Such sources can be taken into account when growing cucumber crops on the ground, but they should not be taken into account when growing cucumber in low-volume hydroponics. The main disadvantage of biological sources is the impossibility of regulating the feeding process and the short duration of the increase in the CO 2 concentration in the greenhouse.

Of the technical sources of carbon dioxide, liquefied carbon dioxide is currently the most widely used; waste gases from the boiler house; gas generators of various types, operating on natural gas. A promising source of carbon dioxide is the exhaust gases of the boiler house. The use of exhaust gases has several big advantages: top dressing can be carried out with open transoms, i.e. throughout the season, CO 2 emissions into the atmosphere are regulated, while natural gas is saved, and most importantly, the project pays off quickly. The exhaust gases of the boiler house are supplied to the greenhouse through a pipeline, using blowing fans, and in the greenhouse - through polyethylene sleeves with a diameter of 5 cm with perforations of 4 holes for every 20 cm. The sleeves are placed under each row of plants. The piping must have drainage holes to drain condensate. Since the environment in which the pipeline is operated is quite aggressive, it is better to use polyethylene rather than metal pipes (metal is subject to rapid corrosion). At present, with the refusal of many greenhouse complexes from large boiler houses and with the installation of boiler houses on each block of greenhouses, this method has become more economical, because. does not require the installation of an expensive main pipeline of a larger diameter over long distances. This method also has disadvantages, one of them is the presence of CO and NO 2 impurities, which can be a serious danger both for people working in the greenhouse and for plants. In this case, it is necessary to have a CO / NO 2 analyzer to control the air in greenhouses. The second drawback: in the summer, when there is no need for heating, the boiler works to supply CO 2. In addition, when switching from gas to fuel oil in a mine or emergency situation, due to the small amount of impurities hazardous to human health and harmful to plants, it is impossible to feed the exhaust gases of the boiler room.

The use of gas generators running on natural gas or propane is now also quite widespread. Gas generators in the amount of 9-16 pcs. per 1 ha, depending on their productivity, permanently installed above the level of the trellis. They are easy to operate, equipped with an automatic control device for the burner and allow you to automate the process of feeding CO 2 . The main disadvantages are: the impossibility of their use with open ventilation transoms, when CO 2 with the air heated during the operation of the burner escapes into the atmosphere; A significant increase in air temperature in the area where the gas generators are located, which affects the evenness of plant growth; the possibility of the formation of CO and NO 2 impurities.

Top dressing with CO 2 begins at sunrise, simultaneously with the start of plant photosynthesis, and ends 2-3 hours before sunset. Seedlings are not fertilized with carbon dioxide. Most often this is due to the difficulty of feeding and single-row distribution of CO 2 in the seedling compartment. The CO 2 concentration in the greenhouse is maintained at 700-800 ppm. During the summer months (May-June) it is desirable to keep the CO 2 concentration at a higher level (up to 1000 ppm) due to the higher illumination, but it is technically difficult to do this with open transoms.

The experience of growing vegetable crops comes over the years, so almost every summer resident has his own technology for growing cucumbers, time-tested and many years of practice. Nevertheless, all possible methods of cultivation of this very capricious, but at the same time very grateful plant, are based on a number of general principles allowing to provide guaranteed harvest Zelentsov. What are the principles in question and what does the technology of growing cucumbers in open and closed ground provide for?

general information

India is considered the birthplace of cucumbers, where they grow in humid tropical conditions as sprawling fruit-bearing and flowering vines. It is the exotic origin of this culture that explains its increased demands on moisture, heat and light.

For normal development, plants require comfortable temperature conditions - for example, the most suitable air temperature for them is the interval + 25 ° ... + 27 °, soil temperature - + 20 ° ... + 25 °. When the temperature drops to +12°...+13°, the rate of plant development drops noticeably, when the temperature drops to +8°...+10°, their growth stops. The influence of extremely unfavorable temperatures in the range of + 3 ° ... + 4 ° for three to four days leads to the complete death of cucumbers.

Flowering of plants begins from the moment when the ambient air warms up above +15° ... +16°, however, the best temperature at which the abundant appearance of flowers is noted is the interval +18° ... +20°. It should be noted that excessively high ambient temperatures, as well as too low ones, are harmful to flowering plants. So, when the thermometer rises more than + 35 °, cucumber flowers begin to crumble, and the plants themselves begin to wither.

In addition to the optimal temperature conditions for this crop, the light and irrigation regime is extremely important. By fully satisfying the needs of cultivated cucumbers in light and moisture (i.e., in regular watering), you will overcome the main part of the path to a generous and rich harvest - these and other nuances will be discussed in this publication.

Where to begin?

Before buying planting material and, you need to determine where you are going to grow this crop - in open or closed ground, in a greenhouse, under temporary film shelters or in a greenhouse? Based on this condition, the appropriate planting material is selected - for example, cucumber seeds for open ground, seeds of parthenocarpic cucumbers recommended for growing in a greenhouse, etc.

It is also important to pay attention to what crops were previously grown in the place where cucumbers are planned to be planted in the coming season. The best predecessors in this case are tomatoes, onions, potatoes, cabbage, legumes and green manure. And, on the contrary, all pumpkin crops are considered the worst predecessors - squash, zucchini and cucumbers directly, since in this situation the risk of pests and infection of young plants with common diseases increases many times over.

Technology of growing cucumbers in closed ground (in greenhouses)

In the very general view, the technology of growing cucumbers in greenhouses (in greenhouses) involves the phased implementation of the following activities:

To save themselves from the hassle of attracting pollinating insects to the greenhouse, experienced summer residents use parthenocarpic hybrids of cucumbers for growing indoors. Their distinguishing characteristic is the ability to form beautiful greens without pollination, which are remarkable not only for their excellent taste, but also for their suitability for canning and pickling.

It should be noted that no hybrid seeds are subjected to pre-treatment and heating, but strictly follow the recommendations given on their packaging. In other cases (if you grow non-hybrid cucumbers), the seeds are traditionally disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate, washed and soaked in a nutrient-stimulating solution for 12 hours. Next, the seeds are placed on a clean, moistened cloth, and left for a couple of days in a room at a temperature of 22 ° -25 °. These procedures will allow the seeds to swell and peck slightly, which will further facilitate their germination.

It is recommended to sow seeds for seedlings approximately 25-30 days before planting young plants in the greenhouse. Sowing is carried out in special pots (10 cm in diameter) from about April 12 to April 20 - in order to have time to transplant seedlings into a glazed or film greenhouse on May 10-15. (It is important to note that the dates given are indicative and may vary depending on the climatic and weather conditions of your region!)

The soil mixture with which the pots are filled is poured with a warm solution of sodium humate, prepared at the rate of: a tablespoon of liquid agent per 10 liters of water. Then, small holes are made in the center of the containers filled with soil mixture and 1 seed is placed in each of them.

After sowing the seeds in pots, they are covered with polyethylene, placed more tightly on a pallet or in a box, and sent to a room where the temperature is maintained within 25 ° -28 °.

After the first shoots appear, the film material is removed from the pots. Every week, young sprouts are fed with a complex mineral fertilizer and regularly watered with warm water (24 ° -28 ° C). Simultaneously with the emergence of seedlings, the temperature in the room is reduced for 4-5 days, keeping it at the level of 15 ° -17 ° for better rooting of sprouts. Then the temperature is raised again to the following values:

• - during the day - up to 20°-22° (but not lower than 15°-16°);
• - at night - up to 18°-20° (but not lower than 12°-14°).

It is very important that after the emergence of seedlings, the seedling pots are moved to the most sunny place, since the lack of light and the violation of the temperature regime inexorably lead to seedlings stretching and lodging - common problems faced by many novice gardeners. If you notice that the sprouts have begun to stretch, carefully sprinkle the stems to the level of the cotyledon leaves with peat to prevent the appearance of root rot.

To compensate for the lack of natural light, a procedure such as supplementary lighting will help. It is held for 12-14 hours - at least from 8:00 to 22:00.

As the plants develop, the pots are set aside from each other so that the unfolding leaves of the seedlings do not touch each other. By providing free space for the sprouts, the already mentioned stretching of the stems can be prevented.

When a pair of true leaves appear on the sprouts, the cucumbers need to be fed with the following composition:

• - universal growth stimulant - liquid sodium humate: 1 spoon;
• - urea: 1 teaspoon;
• - warm water (but not hot!): 10 liters.

Plants are fed with the resulting solution, based on the calculation of 2-3 liters per square meter of plantings.

If for some reason such feeding is not planned, you can use another scheme provided by another proven technology for growing cucumbers. It involves a double feeding of seedlings for the entire period - from the day the sprouts appear until the moment the plants are planted in closed ground.

The first time top dressing is carried out 12-14 days after germination. To do this, use a solution of mullein (proportions: 1 part of mullein to 8 parts of water) or a solution of chicken manure (proportions: 1 part of litter to 10 parts of water). This top dressing is consumed at the rate of: one glass for 6-8 plants.

The second time cucumber seedlings are fed 1-2 days before planting. This time, 15 g of potassium sulfate (or chloride), 40 g of superphosphate and 10 g of urea are dissolved in 10 liters of mullein solution. Composition consumption: one glass for 2 plants.

Irrigation and its frequency deserve special attention. So, according to the generally accepted technology for growing cucumbers for greenhouses, seedlings are watered regularly all the time, trying at the same time to prevent excessive waterlogging of the soil and stagnant water in pots. Watering is carried out only with warm and settled water.

Planting cucumbers and preparing a greenhouse

The greenhouse in which cucumbers will be grown must be conscientiously disinfected from autumn or spring. For this procedure, various disinfectants and agents are used ( bleaching powder, karbofos, copper sulfate, preparations "Intavir", "Oxychoma", "Khom", "Iskra-D").

5-6 days before planting seedlings of cucumbers, it is necessary to equip the ridges in it, prepare the soil and apply fertilizers. Cucumbers are very favorably disposed to loamy soils, with a high content of vegetable or manure humus, but in no case fresh manure, which has not had time to rot well! The introduction of fresh manure can provoke the appearance of root rot, leading to wilting of plants.

Long-term practice of using various technologies for growing cucumbers by experienced gardeners shows that the most suitable soil mixtures for this crop are the following:

• - loamy soil and peat (proportions 5:5);
• - loamy soil, peat, humus (proportions 4:3:3);
• - loamy soil, humus, peat, rotted sawdust (4:4:2:1).

The prepared soil mixture is brought into the greenhouse and the ridges are equipped, into which fertilizers or complex nutrient mixtures are applied, designed specifically for pumpkin crops or directly for cucumbers. After this procedure, the ridges are dug up, and on the day of planting, holes are made in them according to the diameter and size of the pots.

A few hours before planting, the seedlings are thoroughly watered. Further, after the expiration of time, the plants are removed from the pots with a spatula, trying not to destroy the earthen ball on their roots. Without compressing the earthen ball, each seedling is sent to the hole, setting it vertically, and carefully covered with soil.

In the first 15-20 days after planting, the soil near the plants is loosened with the utmost care. If you suddenly notice that water stagnates near the stems during irrigation, this means that the earth has had time to compact. In this case, the problem can be solved with the help of a pitchfork, with which several punctures are made between the rows.

For the rest, cucumber cultivation technology in closed ground involves the implementation of such standard procedures as:

• - watering - moderate before flowering (about 1 time per week) and abundant during flowering and fruiting (2-3 times a week);
• - fertilizing with organic matter and mineral fertilizers - they are carried out 4-5 times throughout the summer.

Special attention in the technology of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse requires the procedure for the formation of plants, the nuances and rules of which we described in the corresponding publication on our website

Technology of growing cucumbers in open ground and in temporary shelters

As in the previous case, the technology of growing cucumbers in open ground and under temporary film shelters provides for the preliminary selection and preparation of suitable planting material. It is very important that the varieties or hybrids you select are adapted to the weather and climatic conditions of your region.

Seedlings for soil under the film can be grown both in a warm greenhouse and on your own windowsill. Approximate sowing dates - April 20-25, approximate planting dates for cucumber seedlings - May 15-20. For growing cucumbers in open ground without a film, dry seeds are sown on May 25 - June 5, swollen and slightly hatched seeds - on June 1-6.

If you are not sure about the stability of the weather and favorable climatic conditions in your area, then it is better to resort to such a technology for growing cucumbers in open ground, which provides for their cultivation on the so-called. "warm beds". Such beds are equipped from ordinary plant debris - with the exception of the tops of potatoes, tomatoes and any pumpkin crops.

In the event that you plan to grow cucumbers on ordinary beds, you should prepare a place for them in advance. As already mentioned, it will be necessary not only to take into account the features of the predecessor plants previously grown in this area, but also to carry out such important procedures in a timely manner as:

• - preliminary (autumn) tillage with a solution of copper sulphate at the rate of 1 liter of solution per 1 sq. meter beds (1 tbsp vitriol per 10 liters of water);
• - autumn cleaning of all plant residues - foliage, dry stems, withered grass and roots;
• - introduction of dolomite flour (ash) and superphosphate into the soil, followed by digging the beds;
• - spring introduction of manure humus, peat, rotted sawdust and ash into the soil, followed by digging the beds;
• - treatment of the finished and leveled beds with a hot solution of potassium permanganate.

Further, as the bed is fully prepared for the upcoming plantings, it is covered with a clean film and left for a week - until the seedlings are planted or the seeds are sown. After the sowing or planting has been carried out, the bed should be covered with non-woven material (for example, lutrasil), and a clean plastic film should be fixed on top of the arcs. (It is important that the height of the arcs be at least 70 cm!) It is advisable not to remove the film cover throughout the summer, but only periodically raise it from the south side for the duration of airing.

Another technology for growing cucumbers in open ground involves obtaining an early harvest on a specially equipped garden bed from suburban garbage. Such beds are being prepared since autumn, collecting branches, foliage, and paper scraps into a common pile. In the spring, the garbage is sorted out, ridges are erected from it (about 75 cm high and about 100 cm wide) of any length.

After that, holes are made in the ridges in a checkerboard pattern, they are disinfected with potassium permanganate, flavored with ash and a soil mixture with fertilizers is added. In the finished bed, either dry seeds are usually sown, or those that have already hatched, but have not yet had time to germinate.

If you grow bee-pollinated varieties of cucumbers in the open field, do not forget about such an important procedure as attracting bees and other pollinating insects, thanks to which you can provide yourself with a rich harvest of tasty, crisp greens. To attract these indispensable helpers to the beds, an old, proven method is used, which consists in planting fragrant flowers near the beds - for example, alyssum, lemon mint, etc.

Variety - leading link technology, but the potential of a variety can be revealed only if its biological characteristics are taken into account in technological process. There are bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic hybrids. For growing in film shelters, it is better to use parthenocarpic hybrids. Breeders have done a lot of work to obtain a parthenocarpic cucumber of universal use. New hybrids registered in the State Register with a well-pronounced parthenocarpy of universal use - Miranda, Zyatek, Well done, Masha, Yegorka, Kibriya, Spring, Artist, Athlete, etc.

Growing seedlings. The advantage when growing through seedlings is that they start harvesting 2-3 weeks earlier. Besides; the growing season is lengthened, the overall yield is increased and the reliability of cultivation is increased, since direct seeding in open or protected ground is associated with a certain risk. Low temperatures during germination, disease damage, seed damage by pests, etc. Highly organic soil is used to grow cucumber seedlings. Sawdust and peat in the ratio 1: 3 with the addition of biohumus and mineral fertilizers. The acidity of the soil should be within pH 6-6.5. Seeds can be sown directly in a pot to a depth of 1.5-2 cm or germinated in sawdust, and then pick out in the phase of cotyledon leaves. Temperature during seed germination 24-25 Shootings appear in 5-7 days. If the seeds were soaked in humate for 2-3 hours, seedlings may appear after 3 days. In the first period (2-3 days) after germination, seedlings are not watered. After picking, seedlings are moistened in the root part and mulched. The root system develops well in moist loose soil. An overdose of water leads to the death of the roots and diseases. The optimum temperature for growing seedlings in April - May is 20-24 0 C. Watering is moderate without waterlogging. Top dressing: the first in the phase of two true leaves; the second three days before landing.

1. For 1 liter of water - 1 g of urea and 2 g of crystallin with the addition of potassium humate (2.5 ml)

2. For 1 liter. water - 1.5 g of ammonium nitrate and 1.5 g. potassium sulfate with the addition of Na humate

Cucumber seedlings grown under glass must be hardened to ultraviolet rays 5-6 days before planting. To do this, seedlings are taken out to direct solar heating on the first day for 2-3 hours. Each subsequent day, the exposure is increased by 1 hour. Seedlings planted without hardening do not tolerate transplanting. The leaves burn, turn white, the root system grows much worse compared to the hardened one. The age of seedlings from the moment of germination should not exceed 25 days. A 25-day-old seedling grown under optimal conditions has: 4-5 true leaves, a height of 20-22 cm and a weight of 20-25 g. Before planting, the seedlings are watered with a solution of ammonium nitrate with potassium humate (per 10 liters of water 2 g. Ammonium nitrate and 25 ml potassium humate). AT recent times on the basis of "humates" for dressing seedlings and adult plants, a variety of liquid fertilizers are used. Many fertilizers contain macro and micro fertilizers with the addition of humic acids, which stimulate the growth of the root system and have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants.
Soil preparation for the greenhouse. To obtain high yields of cucumber, loose, highly organic soils are prepared. The basis of such soils is peat. To prepare the soil mixture, peat must be limed, as it has a high acidity. On acidic soils, cucumber grows poorly. It develops better when the reaction of the soil solution is close to neutral ( pH 6.2-6.8). The second component is humus. Straw manure can be used instead of humus. The third component for the preparation of the soil mixture is sod land. In practice, a fertile, structured, with good physical properties, field or garden land not infected with dangerous diseases and pests. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during the formation of ridges a week before planting. The soil in the greenhouse can be used for 5-6 years or more. To maintain the loose structure of the soil, sawdust or straw cutting is introduced annually in the spring in the amount of 1.2-1.5 m 3. Loosening material is prepared in the fall. It is known that sawdust or straw cutting when applied, bind nitrogen and turn it into an inaccessible form for the plant. That's why prerequisite is the addition of nitrogen fertilizers. For 1 m 3 of sawdust, 2 kg of urea or 3 kg of ammonium nitrate are added. When mixing fertilizers with sawdust, it is necessary to moisten them. Cooked sawdust is covered with a film and left for the winter. In the spring they are carried to the beds and dug up. Humus, high-moor peat can be used as loosening material.

Landing scheme. The yield of vegetable crops, including cucumber, depends on the intensity of photosynthesis, especially in the greenhouse. Plant illumination has a major influence on photosynthesis. To make the most optimal use of plant lighting, it is necessary to correctly position the greenhouse and effectively place the plants in it. The greenhouse is placed from east to west on the north side, it is desirable to have protection from the winds. To tie a cucumber across the greenhouse, pull the trellis. The distance between the trellis is 50 cm. Between the two trellises is 100 cm. The indicated trellis can be used not only for cucumber, but also for tomato, pepper.

Seedlings of hybrids are planted at the rate of 2,7 plants per 1 m 2, for other varieties, the planting pattern changes slightly. Landing pattern 2 100+50 x 40 cm. Plants are planted strictly under the trellis in dug holes. The distance between plants is 40 - 50 cm. The wells are watered with warm water before planting. Prepared seedlings are planted in holes and covered with soil. The root part of the seedlings is mulched with dry soil or peat. Plants are not watered after planting. Moisture in the soil is enough for 2-5 days, depending on the temperature. The first watering is carried out after 2-3 days in the root part with warm water (water temperature 25-30 ° C) consumption of 100-150 ml. on the plant with the addition of humate.

temperature and nutrition. The day before planting, seedlings are treated with "EPIN" for better adaptation to adverse conditions. The temperature of the soil on the day of planting should not be lower than 18 ° C. If the temperature of the soil in which young plants are planted is below 14-16 ° C for a long time, the seedlings will wither and may die. In the future, surviving plants have a weak root system and will not be able to provide nutrition to the formed ovaries. Many plants can "pupate", a bunch of predominantly female flowers is formed at the point of growth and the tip of the young plant stops growing. The optimum temperature in the first week after planting is 20-22 ° C. A week later, when new leaves have formed on the seedlings and the growth of the root system has intensified, the temperature can be reduced to 18-20 ° C. . From the moment they enter the harvesting phase, the reaction of plants to temperature changes. The optimum temperature for obtaining the maximum yield shifts from the region of elevated temperatures to the region of lower ones. This is explained by the fact that at elevated temperatures, Zelentsy grow so quickly that there is strong competition between them for assimilants. The consequence of this is the uneven formation of fruits: after harvesting the cucumbers from the lash, there is a long pause, which can negate the benefits of an early harvest. In addition, in such cases, early aging of plants often occurs. Thus, in order to obtain early and high yields, a high temperature is recommended before harvesting, followed by a decrease in it. Care after planting, within 10-12 days, consists in a slight watering in the root part. At this time, it is important to grow the root system. Overwatering can cause death and rotting of the roots. The root system grows well and develops in loose, well aerated soil. Increase watering with the growth of the first greens. Feed the plants begin three weeks after planting.

Plant formation. the main task formation is to obtain the maximum yield by controlling the growth rate of the vegetative and generative sphere of the plant. Optimal formation allows you to redistribute the assimilation products among the plant organs, rationally use the volume of the greenhouse, create a more favorable regime of illumination and humidity. Before starting the formation, the plant is twisted around the twine. First, the twine is tied with a free knot on a trellis wire, then its second end at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil surface is fixed with a free loop on the plant. Often mistakes are made when tying, which subsequently harm the plants. The main ones are: fastening plants to a highly stretched twine, which, when the trellis wire vibrates, can damage the root system up to tearing it out of the soil; insufficient size of the loop when tying the plant - as the stem thickens, the twine will cut into it, which leads to a decrease in the flow of assimilation products to the root system and its weakening up to death.

In the first period after planting seedlings, it is necessary to form a root system and create conditions for vegetative growth. Therefore, when twisting in the lower 3 nodes, all ovaries and shoots are removed. because of low temperatures individual plants may “terminate” and stop growing. To create vegetative growth in such plants, the ovaries from the axils of the leaves are removed to the point of growth. In the lower tier, the shoots are pinched on 1 leaf and one fruit is left, in the nodes of the middle tier, on 2 leaves, and in the upper tier, 3 leaves. The top of the plant is carefully wrapped around the wire trellis at a distance of 40 cm, lowered down and pinched at a distance of 15-20 cm from the trellis. Two shoots are lowered from the upper nodes of the main lash. When tying, it is necessary to place all the peaks in one direction, and on a parallel trellis in the opposite direction.
Harvest. The fruits reach harvest ripeness 12-15 days after flowering in the spring, and 7-10 days in summer period. Zelentsy is harvested 2-3 times a week with a length of no more than 12 cm, and a diameter of no more than 5 cm. Overgrown fruits left on the plant prevent the development of new ovaries and reduce the yield. Especially if the fruits are pollinated and seeds are tied in them.

10.Characteristics of some varieties grown in the enterprise.