How to choose a watch - expert advice

At the beginning of the last century, wristwatches were more of an accessory than just a chronometer. Today, with the advent of mobile phones, the prevalence of status over functionality has become even more noticeable. The right watch will help you form an opinion about you when applying for a job, impress the opposite sex or emphasize your individuality. However, sometimes you really can’t do without them: at serious meetings, on a hike or during extreme sports, a mobile phone with its built-in clock is not your assistant. Our article will help you choose the right watch, which will cope with its main functions and will not let you down outwardly.

The best watch manufacturers - which company to choose

If you need a really good model, choose watches from famous brands (of course, taking into account your financial capabilities):

• Patek Philippe
• longines
• Tissot
• Seiko

You can read more about these and many other popular brands of watches in our article about the best models according to customer reviews. Those who want to choose a good chronometer for themselves, not limited to just one name on the dial, should read this manual to the end.

The principle of operation and the device of the clock

All watches are divided into 2 types according to the type of drive:

• mechanical
• quartz.

Mechanical models - the oldest, but still relevant type of chronometers - are assembled from a variety of levers, spirals and gears. The engine here is a compressed spring, which is contracted at the time of winding and ensures the operation of all mechanisms when straightened. So that it does not “shoot out” immediately, a regulator (balance) is installed in the case, which stabilizes the course of the watch, as well as an anchor escapement. The latter causes the balance wheel to rotate evenly while maintaining a stable spring preload.

This is what is inside the watch. But the owner sees completely different elements:

• Glazed body;
• plant head;
• Arrow translation mechanism;
• Actually hands and dial.

Otherwise, quartz clocks work. Here, a battery is installed inside, which starts the stepper motor - an electrical impulse from the generator comes to it every second, and as a result, the arrows move.

By the way, electronic watches are also quartz, although in our country no one calls them that. There are no longer gears that drive the pointer mechanism - an electrical signal is transmitted to the display, which displays the desired numbers.

Types of watches

Studying the principle of the watch, we have already got acquainted with the types of chronometers with different types of drive. Now you need to understand their features, and most importantly - highlight the main advantages and disadvantages.

Mechanical

In turn, they are divided into watches with manual and automatic winding. In the first case, you will have to tighten the spring yourself so that the watch continues to run (usually this is done once every 3-4 days).

Self-winding models are less of a hassle. The constant movement of the mechanism here is provided by a weight fixed on the drive axis, which shifts the center of gravity. Each movement of the hand in such a watch causes it to "fall" under the influence of gravity. Part of the energy is transferred to the spring, and it is no longer necessary to wind it manually.

Pros of a mechanical watch:

• Simplicity of design;
• Long service life (at least 50 years);
• They will not stop at the wrong moment, as in the case of a dead battery;
• Status, due, among other things, to manual assembly.

Minuses:

• Serious error - from 5 to 60 seconds / day;
• High price due to the need for fine tuning.

A mechanical watch is not just a chronometer, it is a lifestyle that the owner adheres to. They are chosen by those who know a lot about good things and prefer time-tested classics to everything.

Quartz

These watches are more modern and accurate, although analog models look almost the same as mechanics. The correctness of their course depends on the selected pulse frequency, and it, in turn, is calculated mathematically. True, quartz crystals are also subject to aging, so here, too, the error can manifest itself over time.

Pros of quartz watches:

• Doesn't need to be run regularly
• They have a minimum error (15–20 sec/month);
• Compact body;
• Weight is less than that of mechanics;
• Reliable and durable;
• More affordable.

Minuses:

• Batteries need to be replaced 2-3 times a year.

Quartz watches are the choice of those who need absolute precision and a stylish modern accessory without any pretense of elitism.

Electronic

Although these watches are also quartz, we decided to separate them into a separate group. This is because they display time in a completely different way - on an electronic display, and not using an analog mechanism. Here it is already possible to work in a 24-hour format, and at the same time display other useful information on the scoreboard (alarm clock, calendar, etc.).

Advantages of electronic clock:

• Advanced functionality;
• The most informative display;
• Accuracy and durability of quartz watches;
• Convenient time representation format;
• By the "behavior" of the clock, you can determine that the battery will soon sit down;
• Relatively low cost.

Minuses:

• The display is more likely to fail than the pointer mechanism.
• Usually they have a plastic case, which does not add elegance to them.

Electronics is more often chosen by young people, athletes and people in general who lead an active lifestyle.

There are also quartz watches with a combined time display. They have both a conventional analog dial with arrows and an electronic display. But, as often happens, the combination of the two systems only exacerbated the shortcomings of individual models. In this case, this affected the reliability and durability of watches - combined chronometers turned out to be the least tenacious, and their functionality remained limited.

Selection Options

Having dealt with all the features of watch drives, you can proceed to the choice of models for all other parameters - no less significant than accuracy.

Housing material

First of all, you need to decide what the case of your ideal watch should be made of. There are enough options here, and everyone has different tastes, so we will briefly touch on only the most popular materials:

• Titanium is very light and very strong. Looks great on the watch case, does not cause allergies. Titanium chronometers are especially valued in cold countries - due to their lower thermal conductivity than other metals, they do not chill the hand in winter.
• Gold is an eternal classic and a symbol of prestige. Alas, it is not suitable for everyday wear: despite its high price, gold remains a heavy, soft and easily damaged metal.
• Palladium, which is lightweight and does not oxidize, is a good choice. And although it is not used in its pure form, it is introduced as an alloying element in precious metal alloys, obtaining one of the varieties of white gold. Such watches with light damage will be easy to restore by polishing.
• Stainless steel is a simple and quite budget option for everyday watches. Such cases are durable, although they are prone to scratches. But defects are polished without problems, and they are not at all afraid of corrosion. The only thing is that the presence of nickel in the alloy can cause irritation on the skin, so it is better to choose surgical steel.
• Brass is a cheap metal that requires a mandatory decorative coating. Otherwise, due to oxidation, dirty stripes will remain on the wrist. The case back of this watch is made of stainless steel.
• Plastic - despite its obvious cheapness, this material is very popular in the production of electronic watches. It is light, does not corrode, but is afraid of scratches and becomes brittle in the cold.

The best metal for watch cases is platinum. And although it is indeed quite durable, due to its high cost, it is used only in the production of exclusive watches.

Glass

Here, the choice depends on the neat appearance of the watch during prolonged wear. So you also need to pay attention to the type of glass that protects the dial:

• Mineral - Scratch resistant, but it's fairly easy to break. But the price for it is affordable, and organic watch glass is produced in large quantities - it will not be difficult to replace it in the workshop.
• Sapphire is an expensive material that is used only in the production of elite models. Its scratch resistance approaches that of diamond, but the brittle synthetic sapphire breaks even more easily than quartz.
• Plexiglas is the cheapest and most scratch-sensitive material. But minor defects from its surface are easily eliminated by grinding, but it is actually difficult to break such a “glass”.
• Supplex is a combined two-layer material. Durable organic glass is taken as the basis, which is simply covered with scratch-resistant sapphire glass.

Athletes should also look into anti-reflective watches. Its presence makes it easy to read information from the dial or display in sunny weather. At the same time, it may seem that there is no glass on them at all - very impressive and convenient.

Protection level

According to this indicator, wristwatches can be divided into types again, but protection of the case and internal mechanisms from external factors is not always necessary. Basically, this issue worries athletes and people who work in difficult conditions, where there is a high risk of getting wet, broken or ruining the watch with accumulated fine dust.

The level of moisture protection of chronometers is indicated in units of atmospheres or bar (they have approximately the same numerical value). The sealed cases of such watches can withstand external water pressure from 1 to 20 atm, which corresponds to 10–200 m of water column:

• Models marked "Diver's" or 20 atm have the highest level of tightness and allow deep diving;
• 10 atm - respectively, diving without scuba gear no deeper than 100 m;
• 5 atm - in such hours you can splash in the river or in the pool;
• 3 atm - they are not afraid except for rain and a short washing of hands;
• Chronometers with the inscription "water resistant" do not have any protection at all.

Shockproof models are also quite diverse, since each eminent manufacturer has its own unique security system. But usually it all comes down to the usual anti-shock. It ensures uninterrupted operation of the mechanism even after shocks, vibrations or just long shaking, but neither the case nor the glass protects.

Remember that any watch that can survive a fall from a height of 1 m onto a wooden floor is considered shockproof - you do not need to check its resistance with a hammer.

Strap or bracelet - which is better to choose

Here the choice depends on personal preferences, but you need to understand that a dial bracelet lasts longer than any strap - sometimes as long as the watch itself. Alas, its ability to adjust to the size of the wrist is much more modest. Also, the presence of a bracelet increases the final cost of the watch, although it gives it a more solid look and maintains the overall design.

However, straps can also show themselves quite worthy, especially if they are made of genuine and durable leather. And most importantly, such a mount sits tighter on the hand and is easier to replace if necessary.

Which watch to choose

1. Athletes and people leading an active lifestyle are ideally suited for mechanical watches with automatic winding or electronic models. The case here is needed lighter - titanium or plastic, but it is better to use a combined glass. It is desirable that the chronometer has a comfortable strap and an anti-shock system. Choose the level of water protection according to your preferences.

2. Those who work in difficult conditions will need an inexpensive watch made of stainless steel or plastic with plexiglass glass. It is better that they are shockproof, quartz and have an appropriate degree of moisture protection. For fastening on the arm, it is also worth choosing a strap, because an inexpensive bracelet can accidentally unfasten.

3. The world of business people has its own rules for selecting accessories - here you have to focus on the unspoken laws of your circle. But this applies only to the price and brand of watches. As for specific criteria, it is better to turn to classical mechanics (in some cases, automatic winding is allowed) in a heavy case made of precious metals. The glass is sapphire or sapplex, preferably on a bracelet, but a good leather strap is also not considered bad manners.

4. For the fair sex, design is more important than the functionality or durability of watches. However, the presence of a calendar will not hurt, and women will like the light thin body more. This means that it is better for them to stay on quartz models. Moisture protection is sufficient within 1-3 atm, the choice of glass, fixtures and decorative elements remains with the lady.

5. For children, you should look for inexpensive versions of quartz watches with an electronic time display in a 24-hour format or with a combined dial - it's easier to navigate. Choose a plastic case and glass, the level of water protection up to 3 atm also does not hurt. Also, children's models may have additional features such as voicing the time and an alarm clock.

How much does a watch cost

This is the most difficult question, and here you will have to focus not only on the type of model chosen, but also on your own financial capabilities. Simply put, your watch will be worth what you're willing to pay for it - look at these numbers:

1. Men's mechanical watches without any frills can be bought for 1500 rubles, and for 3 million - it all depends on the name on the dial. The same mechanics, but in a case made of precious metals, are already being sold at a price of 17 thousand to 8 million rubles.

2. The most expensive female models with a mechanical drive cost “only” 1.2–2.5 million rubles, but you can find simpler watches in the range of 3,000–16,000 rubles.

3. Analog quartz watches for men are sold at a price of 600 rubles, for women and children from 400–500. Upper ceiling 900 thousand.

4. Electronic male models cost from 400 to 100 thousand rubles, women's models are cheaper on average (800–28,000 rubles), children's models will cost no more than 3 thousand.