How to choose and what to wear men's shoes - classic oxfords, stylish brogues, trendy monks and comfortable loafers

When meeting a stranger for the first time, we form the concept of him in three things: hairstyle, handshake and shoes. Even if the first 2 factors are quite satisfactory, one look at worn men's shoes or boots can immediately spoil the whole impression of a person. This is important to consider. Especially when a lot depends on the first impression.

There are many examples: a meeting with a new business partner, an interview, after all. All these situations are just those cases when they “meet by clothes”. The second case may not present itself, so you need to immediately appear before your interlocutor in all its splendor and declare yourself as a serious gentleman.

Attention to detail is just a serious approach. Going to an important meeting, you need to pay maximum attention to your image: choose the right suit, tie, shirt and, of course, shoes. A presentable appearance is your clear claim to respect and even special treatment.

Anyone who manages to impress the first time will almost certainly be given a second chance to open up more fully. This applies to both business and personal relationships. But the ability to choose the right clothes and shoes does not come by itself. This needs to be learned.

To begin with, let's try to figure out how to choose men's shoes for a suit and other clothes according to their types, colors and materials.

First of all, it should be noted that only shoes should be worn for a business meeting, interview or social event. Strict, classical and certain model. We'll talk about it later. Even if you are the most fashionable guy and wear sneakers with a tweed jacket and jeans, in a society that adheres to a strict dress code, you will not be understood.

Worse, they will be shunned as unreliable, undermining moral principles. Especially high society sins with this, in which everyone is so eager to get into, but they do not always know how to present themselves in it. In order not to be misinterpreted, it is better not to experiment and wear shoes with a classic suit.

You can show off in sneakers or moccasins on bare feet in another situation. For example, in Hollywood on the red carpet, like Downey Jr. In general, it is very important to clearly distinguish situations when you can shock the audience, and when it is better not to stand out - in a bad sense of the word - and clearly follow the dress code.

First, let's deal with the colors of shoes. Light gray, white and beige shoes go only with clothes in the same color scheme. The most "running" shades of men's shoes, which are worn with classic suits, are black, brown and burgundy (a deep burgundy-cherry shade of red wine). Here's how to pair them with classic suits:

Shades of shoes are suitable for a gray suit: black, burgundy, brown.
To dark gray - black and burgundy.
Only black shoes can be worn under a black suit. All other options should be excluded immediately.
Brown suit - brown shoes or burgundy shoes.
can be combined with all three options (black, burgundy, brown).

But it is not enough to correctly select the shade of shoes for the suit. You should also know their specific and stylistic varieties and be able to correctly combine all this diversity with clothing.

The most fashionable men's shoes for the spring-summer season are oxfords, brogues, monks and loafers.

Now it's time to figure out what all these are and what they should be worn with.

Black leather oxford shoes

All fashionable men's shoes differ either in tailoring or in the way of finishing (decor). To understand what oxfords are, you need to figure out what some parts of the shoes are called. So:

The toe is the front part of the shoe, colloquially referred to as the "toe".
Berets are two halves on which holes for laces are located. The ankle boots are sewn to the back of the foot and partially cover its uppermost part.
The vamp is the entire outer part of the shoe that completely covers the back of the foot.

Depending on how berets are attached to the vamp, men's shoes are divided into oxfords and derbies. In the derby, the cuffs are stitched over the vamp, so they are said to have open lacing. If you untie the laces of such shoes, the berets will simply open freely in different directions.

In Oxfords, the lacing is closed, i.e. in them, the opposite is true - the vamp is sewn over the berets. If you untie the lacing of the Oxfords, their berets will remain in place, tightly pressed to the foot. Classic oxfords are always absolutely smooth, without any perforation (shoes with perforations are called brogues).

Oxfords got their name from the name of a famous educational institution in London. It was in Oxford in the middle of the 19th century that men's shoes of this type became insanely popular. The predecessors of Oxfords are called Balmorals. The latter resemble high closed shoes.

Classic oxfords are always made from black (rarely brown) genuine leather. They can be matte, glossy or lacquered. Patent oxfords are considered shoes for special occasions, they are worn under a tuxedo - Black tie dress code.

Features of models and materials

Oxfords must be leather both outside and inside. Now cheap models from the inside are often trimmed with textiles or eco-leather (partially or completely). The top classic is absolutely smooth leather without any decor. But now oxfords are also made from suede. Sometimes these materials are combined. Manufacturers are also experimenting with colors. However, one pair of classic black smooth leather oxford shoes is a must-have.

The heel of these shoes is wide and flat, the sole is thin. In general, they look very elegant and quite delicate. In the past, oxford soles were always made of thick, high-quality leather. Now, in most cases, it has been replaced by synthetic materials (vulcanized rubber or polyurethane), but expensive models can boast real leather soles.

What to wear with oxfords

In the 10s, in connection with the craze for everything British, the fashion for this type of shoe was also established. Oxfords are considered absolute classics. They should be worn with dark classic suits.

If your event invitation card says Black tie, wear smart black leather oxfords. They rely on a black (you can dark blue) tuxedo, white shirt and black bow tie.

Oxfords are also suitable for another situation - a social event with a White tie dress code. It means a light or black tailcoat (depending on the time of day), a white silk waistcoat, a white shirt and a white bow tie.

At especially solemn receptions abroad, gentlemen also wear a top hat. This is not practiced in Russia. White tie is the most strict and solemn dress code adopted in high society.

In addition, classic black oxfords are suitable for a classic business dress code, which involves wearing an expensive classic suit and tie. Sometimes in different magazines there are photos of guys dressed in classic oxfords and clothes in a more relaxed, even casual style. For example, jeans or cotton trousers.

This is wrong and it is not worth taking an example from such comrades. Leave a pair of oxfords for the formal reception, and you can pick up a different shoe for every day.

Brown brogues

Brogues are shoes with perforations at the toe and vamp. At the same time, it doesn’t matter at all how exactly their berets and vamps are located relative to each other. Brogues can be either Oxford or Derby. The most important thing is that they have those very decorative holes, thanks to which these shoes got their name. Broging is the punching of holes in leather goods.

Brogues are an even more ancient and "deserved" type of men's shoes. They originated as far back as the 17th century. Initially, these "leaky shoes" were the main footwear of Irish farmers. These honest workers lived in a rather harsh, very humid climate. The abundance of swamps and small streams led to the fact that the feet of ordinary Irish pastoralists were constantly wet.

In order not to make themselves sore in such dampness, they began to make many small holes on the toes of their boots. Thanks to this "ventilation", the shoes dried out faster. A few centuries later, aristocrats borrowed brogues from ordinary hard workers. At the beginning of the 20th century, they were much more common on golf courses than on farms.

Over time, practicality was replaced by decorativeness, and holes began to be made in a certain order for beauty. Decorative details are typical for brogues, for example, a detachable toe, along the line of which perforation is also made. This line is not always straight. Wavy and patterned perforations are even more common. The toe of the shoes, richly decorated with such an openwork pattern, is called a “medallion”.

What to wear with brogues

Traditionally, brogues are made from thick brown leather, but black and other colors are now available. Brogues made of dark brown suede (naturally, only natural) also look very respectable. Perforation on them can be applied in different ways. The sole of classic brogues is quite thick; the heel is wide, sometimes rough.

All of these boots are less formal than oxfords and more versatile. Their scope is also much wider. Brogues look equally good with suits, with thick cotton chinos, and with jeans.

The following relationship is observed: the more holes on the brogues, the less formal style of clothing should be preferred. Suitable styles are classic and smart casual (casual, but at the same time very elegant clothes). By the way, now brogues are worn without socks.

Monkey

Monks are another stylish pair of shoes to have in your closet. If brogues are farm shoes by origin, then monks are monk shoes. Monks differ from their "relatives" in that they do not have lacing at all as such.

Instead, a small strap (sometimes two) with a miniature clasp flaunts on the vamp. Similar men's shoes with two buckles are called double monks.

The prototype of these shoes is simple monastic shoes with buckles. It was sewn from one single piece of leather and did not have any decorative details.

The buckles served a purely utilitarian function: shoes without laces could be quickly put on with almost no effort.

Not only young men lived in the monasteries, but also rather dilapidated old men. This had to be taken into account.

Monastic shoes were worn well, as they were made of good quality leather. Modern monks are also made from natural calfskin or suede. In addition, there are a huge number of variations and combinations of materials: textile-leather, leather-suede, etc.

A few decades ago, the soles of these shoes were exclusively leather. Now it has been replaced everywhere by synthetic materials: polyurethane, vulcanized rubber. The heel of these shoes is flat and wide, the sole is not particularly thick. The toe can be either solid or detachable, like brogues.

What to wear with monks

Monks are very stylish, but at the same time, as it were, more “relaxed” than oxfords. Black smooth monks made of matte leather can be worn with a classic suit, but they will look simpler than classic oxfords. Classic colors are dark brown and black.

For all other models of monks - colored, perforated - an elegant smart casual style is more preferable. Paired with chinos and blazers, jeans and t-shirts for a casual look, these boots are informal and relaxed.

The peculiarity of this shoe is also that it must be worn with tapered and / or cropped trousers in the Italian style. So the trousers will slightly open the buckles and will not cling to them when walking. You can also combine monks with skinny jeans in dark shades.

loafers

Loafers are perhaps the most informal, but at the same time very stylish and beloved by many men's shoes. Such shoes appeared in the middle of the 20th century. The model was specially designed for a person of royal blood - the monarch George VI. Very soon she gained wild popularity among other crowned persons. Loafers are also referred to as "loafers' shoes", which is understandable given their origins.

With men's shoes, monk loafers are related by the lack of lacing. But they don't have buckles either. L

Offers are the most comfortable casual shoes imaginable. It just slips on like moccasins and doesn't fasten at all.

Put on - and you can go. In shape, these shoes are also very similar to moccasins, only they have a much thicker sole and a heel.

Loafers are made from a variety of materials: natural and / or polished leather, suede, etc. Sometimes these shoes are decorated with decorative details: tassels, straps, etc.

From the inside, loafers are usually lined with leather. The cheapest models are artificial, the expensive ones are natural. Since these shoes can be worn without socks, we highly recommend buying only the full leather version (or with a suede upper).

Genuine leather will allow you to feel as comfortable as possible in the heat. These are amazingly comfortable shoes. You'll get so used to your loafers that you won't be able to part with them.

What to wear with loafers

Suede "loafer shoes" are simply made for casual wear (casual, smart casual); Looks great with jeans and cropped chinos. This is ideal for summer, spring and warm autumn.

Black leather loafers can be worn with a suit, but it's better if it is in a more relaxed style. This option is suitable for an office or not too formal business meeting. This combination is very fond of the Americans. In Europe, wearing loafers with suits is not very common.

Caring for suede loafers

If you are lucky enough to buy chic suede loafers, do not forget that suede is a capricious material.

To keep the shoes from losing their luxurious look, it is better not to wear them in heavy rain. In wet weather, the surface of suede can be protected with a special spray that repels water.

Another thing that the owner of such shoes will need is a special brush for suede. Its soft rubber bristles do not rub the suede, but, on the contrary, straighten the pile on it. This brush cleans dust well and helps to care for suede shoes.

What are shoes made of?

The most preferred material for shoes is genuine leather. It is worn for a long time, looks expensive and does not create a “greenhouse” effect for the leg.

Of course, shoes are also made from leatherette, but this option can only be chosen if you are on a tight budget. Suede shoes of any model look very elegant. However, they require more care than the same shoes made of smooth leather.

But skin and skin are different. Depending on the "origin", this material may be more or less wearable. The most popular types of genuine leather that are used for sewing men's shoes:

Pork. Very soft and pleasant to the touch, but quickly gets wet in rainy weather and is not worn for as long as we would like.
Veal. Soft, beautiful and durable. The only downside is it's quite expensive.
Bullish. Very thick, durable and wearable. Cheaper than veal, but has one drawback: due to the hardness of this material, creases form on the folds on it.
Cow. Softer and much better than bull, but also much more expensive than it.
Cordovan (from horse groats). Expensive but very high quality. Lasts longer than other types of leather.
Exotic (crocodile, snake, etc.). Shoes made of this material belong to the luxury segment. Very expensive, high quality and beautiful.

Pigskin

bull leather

Ostrich skin

Python skin

Crocodile skin

Horse rump leather

eel skin

cow skin

lizard skin

Calfskin

We also recommend buying shoes that are completely trimmed with natural leather on the inside (insole, etc.). This is the most comfortable and pleasant material to wear. As an economy option, textile inserts can be considered, but only from natural threads (cotton, linen).

Where to buy good shoes

Those who are interested in inexpensive shoes should pay attention to the ECCO and Salamander brands (the cost of a pair is up to 10,000 rubles). By the way, ECCO produces shoes with a special membrane that provides the foot with maximum comfort (let air through, but does not allow moisture to penetrate inside).

The middle price segment can be found in Tod`s and Loake stores (from 10,000 to 25,000 rubles). Luxury shoes are sold by Crocket & Jones and John Lobb (more than 25,000 rubles). And one more tip: if you need a pair of really good shoes, you should not go to the market for them. Better take a look at Farfetch, Lamoda or Wildberries online stores and choose a pair of guaranteed quality.

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