Classic men's shoes - models and rules for combining

Men's fashion is very conservative, especially the part that concerns shoes. Every man's wardrobe should have classic shoes. Let's figure out what they are, and what rules for combining shoes and clothes are accepted in modern fashion. Photos of classic models of shoes will help to understand the features of the models.

Kinds

So, classic men's shoes are represented by five varieties, these are:

  • oxfords;
  • Derby;
  • brogues;
  • monks;
  • loafers.


Let's figure out what features each of the listed varieties has, and what rules you need to follow when choosing clothes.

Oxfords

These are classic English shoes, which are the basic model of a business men's wardrobe. These shoes were worn by students at Oxford University, which is why they have such an unusual name.

Oxfords came from boots called balomrals, but the latter did not have laces, but were fastened with buttons, and the fastener was located on the side. But later the button closure was replaced by lacing, in addition, the height of the shoes was reduced.

A distinctive feature of Oxford shoes is hidden lacing, that is, the front part of the shoes (toe) is sewn on top of the side parts (boots). The sole is thin, leather, the heel is wide.

The traditional option is black classic shoes made of genuine leather. However, other versions of oxfords are now being produced, for example, made from suede or patent leather. In addition to black, brown ones are on sale, and sometimes dark blue ones.

Clothing selection rules

What to wear with classic oxfords? Models made of black matte leather are worn with a classic cut suit in black, dark gray or dark blue. In addition, these shoes can be worn under a tailcoat or tuxedo.

Patent black oxfords are a model for the evening, they are worn with a tuxedo and only on special occasions.

Colored oxfords and suede models are less formal shoes, but should also be worn with suits. Informal attire is not appropriate in this case. Brown oxfords can be worn with a gray, brown or navy suit. Navy blue will look good with a gray or blue suit. Socks for oxfords are a must, and it is necessary to select socks to match the color of the trousers.

Derby

These are also classic men's shoes for a suit, but less formal compared to oxfords. In principle, both of these varieties are similar, but there are significant differences.

In shoes named after the Earl of Derby, who invented this model, the lacing of classic shoes is open. This means that the vamp is sewn under the berets. Thanks to this, shoes in the absence of laces can open and close freely.

Derby shoes have a tapered toe, thin soles and a wide square heel. The most popular leather classic derby shoes are black and brown, but suede models are also available.

Clothing selection rules

Derby can be called a transitional model that fits formal and informal wear. Of course, when choosing shoes, you must consider their color. Black derbies made of genuine leather without perforation and decor are worn with classic suits. But suede dress shoes, as well as brown or beige models, can be worn with informal trousers. Jeans can also be worn with derby shoes, but you should choose classic models.

brogues

The difference of this model is the presence of perforation, that is, these are, as a rule, classic summer shoes. The presence of perforation can be on both oxfords and derbies, so brogues are somewhat conditionally singled out as a separate type.

It is believed that the perforation on shoes was invented by shepherds from Ireland, and it was done with a practical purpose, so that the shoes would dry out faster.

Depending on the location of the perforation, there are:

  • quarter brogues in which the finish is arranged along the seams;
  • half brogues, in this model, the holes are located not only along the seams, but also on the toe;
  • full brogues with perforation on the toe in the shape of the letter "W".

Brogues can be black or colored, two-tone options are popular - black and white and brown and white shoes.

Clothing selection rules

The more space the perforation takes up, the more informal the shoe is considered. If quarter brogues are allowed to be combined with a business suit, then half brogues are worn exclusively with informal style trousers and jeans. Two-tone brogues fit perfectly into the retro style.

Monkey

This type of men's shoe is considered a classic, although it does not have laces. The characteristic features of the monk are an elongated toe and the presence of one or two straps, complemented by metal buckles.

The most formal version of the shoes are black monks without perforations with one buckle. The rest of the varieties are suitable for informal wear.

Monks are made of leather and suede, sometimes there are combined models, for example, leather ones with suede inserts. The sole of the shoe can be either leather or synthetic, such as polyurethane. But in any case, the sole is thin, and the heel is low and wide. The toe can be smooth or perforated, like brogues.

Clothing selection rules

Monks are shoes that are more often used to create casual looks, but black smooth leather models can be worn with a suit. However, the image will turn out to be informal, this version of the shoe is not suitable for attending formal events.


Suede monks, colored models and perforated shoes are shoes that are recommended for creating informal looks. You can wear monks with corduroy cropped trousers and a loose jacket, or with jeans and a pullover.

A characteristic detail of the shoes is the presence of buckles, so it is recommended to choose shortened trousers for such shoes. In this case, the legs will not touch the buckles.

loafers

The latest version of classic shoes designed for men are loafers. This model does not have laces or other fasteners. Additional characteristic features are an elongated tongue, in some species there is a jumper located in the front part on the instep.

Loafers seem similar to moccasins, however, these types of shoes have a significant difference - loafers have a wide heel and a hard sole.

Loafers are of different types. The most formal variety is the Venetian loafers. These are discreet, undecorated shoes. Another fairly strict shoe option is penny loafers. This model has a characteristic jumper, decorated with a slot. This jumper in the old days was used by men to store coins. Thanks to this, the shoes got their name.

Informal shoes include loafers with decor. Traditional decor options are leather tassels and buckles. Somewhat less common are loafers decorated with fringe located on the vamp.

Clothing selection rules

Loafers are usually used with clothing designed for free time. You can wear these shoes with a business suit, but the image will turn out to be informal. For a suit, you should choose Venetian or penny loafers. Models with a tassel or with buckles are not worn with formal clothing.

If you plan to wear loafers with a suit, then you should give preference to models made of matte black leather. And it is better that the costume itself be sewn in a free style. Americans are especially fond of combining loafers with business clothes; in Europe, this combination, although not excluded, is used much less frequently.

Shoes embellished with tassels, buckles and fringe are leisure shoes. They are worn with informal attire.

Should I wear socks under loafers? The answer to this question will depend on the image being created. If shoes are worn under a suit, then socks are a must. When creating images of a free style, you can do without this detail of the toilet.

Brands

Classic men's shoes are quite traditional, however, designers often use bold tricks, breaking stereotypes. For example, Oliver Spencer is a fan of colored shoes, he offers fashionistas yellow and orange suede shoes, burgundy tassel loafers.

Gucci fashion house also offers interesting color schemes. This season, designers have introduced deep cherry color derby shoes with brown and black soles. The Saint Laurent brand decided to surprise fashionistas with classic monks with unusually thick soles; to give harmony to the model, the designers used a massive buckle.