100 most honest rules of men's wardrobe! Part 1: outerwear, jacket, shirt

Our editor studied the book “Dress code. Rules for an impeccable wardrobe for men who care about how they look” and compiled an uncompromising style guide.

Today we will tell you how to fasten a jacket correctly, is a short-sleeved shirt as scary as men's fashion magazines say (do not think that we are judging if you suddenly read such ones), what shoes you need to wear a blazer with, and we will answer other questions that, for sure, do not let you sleep well at night.

Outerwear

• You can now wear almost any outerwear with sports shoes and at the same time not catch the surprised looks of passers-by. The only exception, perhaps, is the trench coat. Wear it with boots - brogues, derbies or oxfords.

Never wear a short jacket over a jacket, otherwise you risk looking like a guest of Pitti Uomo Fashion Week, who was transported from Rome to Chelyabinsk by a magical hurricane.

With a single-breasted coat, you should do the same as with a jacket, that is, do not fasten the bottom button. For a short double-breasted coat or pea jacket, it is better to fasten the button so that the floors do not scatter.

Shirt

There should be at least two white shirts of good quality in the wardrobe. And not the same ones that you bought to defend your diploma at the institute.

Practice rolling up your shirt sleeves in several ways. There are many videos on YouTube that will teach you how to roll up your sleeves to the forearm, to the elbow, or in a fashionable Italian way.

A button-down shirt is a casual style, as it was originally part of the golfer's uniform. Wearing it with a tie is bad manners.

The same goes for a shirt with another attribute of a sporty style - a pocket on the chest.

Let there be one shirt with a catchy print in your wardrobe. But better - a classic print like paisley or royal lilies, and not naked beauties or little Cthulhus dancing on a rainbow.

There are three types of cut shirts: wide (full fit) - 20 cm wider than the volume of the body; standard (regular fit) - wider by 12–14 cm, fitted (slim fit) - by 8 cm. Stick to these numbers. A shirt wider than 20 cm will look like a lonely sail in the blue fog of the sea, and less than 8 cm - already a women's blouse.

The venerable shirt family has its own black sheep. You must have heard at least once that wearing a short-sleeved shirt is a crime against humanity, punishable in the Hague court. Now, it's not like that. A short sleeve shirt is a great alternative to a polo in summer. But wearing it to the office, especially under a jacket, is a taboo.

The sleeve of the shirt should end exactly at the wrist. The indicator is the bone of the carpal joint: the cuff should be located directly below it, and the sleeve of the jacket - directly above it. Thus, the jacket sleeve should be 0.5–1 cm shorter than the shirt.

A shirt tucked into pants makes you look taller.

Blazer

Wear a single-breasted jacket buttoned up, except when you are seated.

A double-breasted jacket is never unbuttoned according to the rules. (Only when they take it off and put it on. Surely it would be inconvenient to do it over the head!) The reason for such severity is its military origin. The double-breasted jacket is still considered more conservative than its single-breasted brother.

When choosing a jacket, focus on the shoulders. The sleeve length and volume at the waist can be adjusted by the tailor (reduce, of course, not increase).

The classic length of the jacket is up to the middle of the thumb of the hand down.

Do not wear trousers and a jacket of similar shades. For example, a gray jacket can be worn with rust-colored or green trousers, but in no case with gray ones. Exception: if you combine a jacket with jeans, they can match in color. Certainly not a denim jacket!

Sports jackets (primarily made of tweed, twill, wool or corduroy) are usually worn exclusively with brown shoes. The exception is the blazer. Due to his military ancestry, the restrictions are more vague. The blazer can be combined with both brown and black shoes.

A sign of an expensive and high-quality jacket is slots (cuts) on the sleeves with buttons and loops. Most often you can find models with four buttons, but three and five do not contradict the classical canons. These buttons are not supposed to be worn open.

• The English way (A) to keep your hands in your pockets is to thread them through the slots of the jacket, the Italian (B) is to pull the floors back, and the French (C) is the absence of any system!